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| ebxr82nv |
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I'm having a little issue with my el, when I have my foot pressed on the pedal for and extended period it travels to the floor. Only really happens when I'm sitting at the lights. I don't actually lose any brake force while this happens and when I release the pedal and reaply the pedal pressure is normal again for a few seconds. Now I've checked the vacuum lines and can't find anything suss there so I'm left to look at either the booster or master cylinder I think. Any thoughts?
_________________ 9/98 AU1 XR6hp-about to retire from the road and be reborn on the race track. |
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| Mad2 |
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same as you altho do a visual check at the wheels as well
even have someone at the wheel so you can check whilst they pump the brakes ie bulging hose leaking connection etc etc also check around base of cylinder/booster & inside of firewall for weepage |
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| Darcy4524 |
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My cousin had this happen to his ba so after i pulled out the master cylinder and pulled it apart i found the o rings were cracked so i ordered a rebuild kit for it put the new o rings in put it back together and now it's fine not a single problem now. So i would try that.
_________________ NA2 fairlane - 3.9 with au headgasket & injectors, ef fans, 2.5" zorst, lowered on selby springs , kenwood head unit and 6 speakers, fusion sub, el ecu & ti chip |
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| cjh |
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ebxr82nv wrote: I'm having a little issue with my el, when I have my foot pressed on the pedal for and extended period it travels to the floor. Only really happens when I'm sitting at the lights. I don't actually lose any brake force while this happens and when I release the pedal and reaply the pedal pressure is normal again for a few seconds. Now I've checked the vacuum lines and can't find anything suss there so I'm left to look at either the booster or master cylinder I think. Any thoughts? Master cylinder is stuffed.
_________________ http://youtu.be/jJTh9F3Vgg0 |
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| ebxr82nv |
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That was easy, I'd rather change the master than the booster. Thanks
_________________ 9/98 AU1 XR6hp-about to retire from the road and be reborn on the race track. |
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| Darcy4524 |
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You don't have to change it just get the right o rings and it'll be fine.
_________________ NA2 fairlane - 3.9 with au headgasket & injectors, ef fans, 2.5" zorst, lowered on selby springs , kenwood head unit and 6 speakers, fusion sub, el ecu & ti chip |
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| TROYMAN |
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you still got to take it off to re build it, just as easy to buy a new one and replace it.
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| cjh |
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TROYMAN wrote: you still got to take it off to re build it, just as easy to buy a new one and replace it. Yep.....and you need a small hone to refinish the bore surface.....and, thats if the bore is good enough for just a hone.
_________________ http://youtu.be/jJTh9F3Vgg0 |
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| ebxr82nv |
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cjh wrote: TROYMAN wrote: you still got to take it off to re build it, just as easy to buy a new one and replace it. Yep.....and you need a small hone to refinish the bore surface.....and, thats if the bore is good enough for just a hone. Time is money after all and if I was to spend the time on the rebuild and it crapped itself I would have wasted both.
_________________ 9/98 AU1 XR6hp-about to retire from the road and be reborn on the race track. |
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| Darcy4524 |
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It all comes down to preference my cousin couldn't afford $250 at the time and his bore was fine even if it wasn't it would just go onto my dad's lathe but i guess not everyone has access to a $10,000 machine. But if you take out the master cylinder pull it apart which takes about 10 mins if you know what your doing $4 later for o rings and another 10 mins later and your done. Either way you have to remove the master cylinder and bleed the brakes so you might as well find out the condition of the master cylinder.
_________________ NA2 fairlane - 3.9 with au headgasket & injectors, ef fans, 2.5" zorst, lowered on selby springs , kenwood head unit and 6 speakers, fusion sub, el ecu & ti chip |
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