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bennywabbit94 |
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Hi guys I've pulled over because I could smell smoke from my car and my rear rotor is glowing red and smoking I'm in my xh ute. Any help muchly appreciated
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bennywabbit94 |
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Also before I drove it I attempted to adjust my clutch cable at the firewall. If this information helps at all
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JOSE |
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handbrake or caliper stuck on, you may be able to free it on the roadside but i dont like your chances.
check that the handbrake cable has some slack on it when off, or give the handbrake arm a light tap in both directions to free it. although if the disc was glowing i would probably suggest getting a tow.
_________________ Because i can. |
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bennywabbit94 |
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I have readjusted my clutch and was able to drive home without a drama. What could this mean ?
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Mad2 |
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{USERNAME} wrote: Hi guys I've pulled over because I could smell smoke from my car and my rear rotor is glowing red and smoking I'm in my xh ute. Any help muchly appreciated this has nothing to do with you adjusting the clutch cable - as Jose said check handbrake/rear brakes |
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bennywabbit94 |
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Okay will the rotor be alright? It looks like it has worn a pad line going around the disk. Will my caliper pads be worn out now aswell?
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SWC |
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Disc will probably be stuffed as will the pads. Replace the lot and check the caliper out. I would say that either the piston is siezed up or the handbrake is jammed up.
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bennywabbit94 |
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What are things I could be looking for in the caliper to see if its buggered? And any suggestions on where would be best to Get new pads and rotors? Cheers
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JOSE |
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since this is your braking system that is playing up and you dont quite now what you are talking about i would suggest either taking it to a mechanic or getting hold of a mate who knows his s**t to help you out.
_________________ Because i can. |
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efxr6wagon |
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Had the same thing on my EF. One rear caliper was starting to seize, was smoking, and you could feel the heat from a metre away. Waited 15 minutes and could drive away no problem, and didn't happen again. But probably had no brakes at all on that corner, as the pad was cooked to the point of becoming crumbly on the edges, and the piston was likely seized away from the rotor, so no braking at all. The rotor survived (no warping), but the brake fluid behind the piston is not designed to handle such extreme temperatures.
Assuming it is a seized caliper, at a minimum: - new brake pad (do both sides at once or you will get uneven braking) - caliper rebuild kit (Bursons, AutoOne, Repco, whatever) - full brake fluid replacement and bleed (probably needed done anyway, as max 2 year life) If your rotor is warped, you will need a pair of those too. +1 If you are unfamiliar with working on brakes, best not take chances trying to DIY. This is a straightforward job for any brake shop - even if you supply your own choice of pads.
_________________ 95 EF XR6 wagon, 17" FTRs, DBA rotors, KYB/Koni, AU bottom end, ported EF head, backcut valves, SS Inductions, Territory intake, 10.2 CR, Auckland 1258 cam, vernier gear, PH4480 headers, no cat, Tickford 2.5", 2800rpm stall, J3 chip |
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