Timing chain snapped a week ago, and a mate found a guy on the southside wrecking an ED Futura Classic that I could grab the head from. Went and saw him, he said $100 for the head.

I thought this was fair price, but I know a gamble too, as it may be a dud... It was running, but today someone bought some of the elecs, so he has no start.

Is this combo going to work alright?

Obviously I won't get it on this weekend, but when I get it machined and prepp'd for reassembly on my EA Block; is it too exy to get the bigger valves? Port? Or would that be more worthwhile rebuilding a XR6 head in the first place?

An ED 4.0L head will work ok on the 3.9 block. You're compression will be reduced slightly though. I had an EF head shaved 25thou to bring the compression ratio up to about 9.0:1 on a 3.9 block.

Bigger valves from an XR6 are worthwhile. You'll have to decide how far you want to go with the head. A full reco is pricey by the time it's crack tested, pressure tested, acid washed, new valve guides & seals, planing, tested for straightness, and a valve regrind. I had my EF head reconditioned, ported, new 47mm exhaust valves and a Durapro head gasket set for $850. The exhaust valves cost about $90 alone.

you can make up some of the lost compression by using a mls AU metal gasket... they are thinner and better anyway.

Shame you are not over here in Perth... I have an EA MPFI motor you can have.. head and all.

about a year ago, I picked up an entire running ED motor in very good nick for 150... I'd expect to get an EL motor for that money now. (and I have).... E series motors are getting very cheap now.

Wrecker up here will sell me a VCT AU motor for 550 if I want it.

Cheers guys. Myself and 2 other mates went and got it at lunch time. Was alot more confident doing this sort stuff after doing the 1636 cam myself at w/supervision at Christmas, plus I invested in a decent Stanley socket set.

We got the head off fairly easy, just had 2 bolts still done up that we overlooked; the coil mount bracket, and one of the lower middle inlet manifold bolts. After that, easy.

I paid him $100, the wreckers quoted $165, and an honest sounding fella at Phillip Head Services over the phone said $100 is a good price. He said not much point in porting etc, was a good design to start with, but was up to me. I think he got more keen knowing I had Extractors, Cam, and intake mods, so there may be some more talk about what I could do with it. He said to take an extra .5mm off and I'd get good compression again seeing as tho I'm using the 4.0L head.

I took some pics, I figured it was in good enough nic. The black stuff I figured was just a bit of fuel deposits.

After shaving, and pressure / crack test, and a good bath of the head, what would anyone suggest I could do that wouldn't break the bank. Harder springs (crow?), deburring? polishing?

47mm ex valve sounds massive over the stock 39mm, but I figure you have a cam that takes advantage of it.

 

 

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There are two things you could do that wouldn't be too expensive:

1. Match the ports to the gaskets
2. Debur and clean up around the ports, valve guides & valve seats

If you haven't got the tools or knowhow, this is a job for cylinder head shop. But, if you're happy to have a go watch you don't go through the water jacket or damage the valve seats.

Unless you're planning to rev the engine to and past redline, harder springs may not be necessary. Stock EF springs were tested and found to be stiffer than the JMM (Crow) springs I bought.

Are the valves pictured in good nic? Is that burn or just deposits? From the pics do they look useuable, and would this normally been cleaned up when I get it machined and pressure tested?