Cheer's Mate!

The extractors are good, I'm more than happy with them. They gave a noticeable increase in power that I wasn't really thinking was going to be there. I find a lot of claims about "extra 25kw with our new performance muffler" s**t a bit boring and optimistic. Quality wise, as in the welds and stuff, is good. It could be better like on stainless but for the price you can't go wrong.

The KYB's are excellent. I think it will take time for them to settle a little. Its an XR6 so I think they come a little lower than the standard car. Ride compliance is slightly firmer than the old (very tired) shocks. The car points a lot better, and is much more settled under hard braking. Handling on the limit is better, I held a nice slide on our local highway roundabout (noone around ) from entry to exit and it was very easy. I'm not sure if I need to do the bushes now, there is lots more control from the suspension, and all for less than $300 and an afternoon.

Where did u notice the power difference in rpm???

Probably from 2500-4500rpm. Perhaps its not a huge power difference but an increase in torque around the engines optimum VE revs. The biggest difference was the smoothing of the motor's vibs at higher revs. Definately sounds and feels less 'hoary' than before.

Ok, so I'm having a bit of a go and am trying to do this cam upgrade. Unfortunately, some f**k mechanic (probably DIY backyarder like me ) as done the tensioner retainer up with a rattle gun of sorts and now I can't get it out. As you can see, it was done up waaay too tight and the little seal has been squeezed out the side.



I've snapped one set of needlenose pliers (my best ones too!), bent the f**k out of my Sanvik circlips pliers, and another set of needlenose pliers. I have managed to rotate it around about 90 degrees with a hammer and screwdriver but its still not loose enought to undo yet, and its f**k the tensioner retainer's little holes. Nothing short of a proper C spanner is gonna undo this prick, do I really need to undo it to get the cam out?

No it doesn't have to come out. And by the looks of it, it is not leaking from the seal, which is good. As long as you have released the tensioner with the allen key, then you are good to go.

Cheers
BenJ

When you say "loosened" you mean locked it up? I have done that, its only about half a turn from memory. Should I be able to push the timing chain around a bit once I have done this?

I'd really like to undo that retainer if only to replace the seal, but I don't think its gonna happen. Cheer's for the advice.

Yes, it should 'click' and the chain will be slack.

BenJ

Sorted, cheer's for the advice. I think I might have figured that one out eventually.

Seeing as I'm a gun sparky an all, I thought I would try my hand at some monkey mechanical work. Pretty scary playing with this stuff not knowing where everything goes, what it does and all that. But I have much success (kazakhstani) and put the cam and HLA's in and its all great. Cam is good, stronger just about everywhere, but not as much as I thought it might be. Loses a little from around 1600-2000rpm but picks up from there. I like it!

Here's some piccies!

Rocker cover off, stuffing around with the power steering pump.




But I'm sure you've all seen the inside of an inline 6 so moving on. New cam vs old cam. How do you tell its a regrind?



Valvetrain out, checking it over and replacing the HLA's. Kitchen benches are great for this, so long as the mrs is still asleep on a Sunday morning. I taped the HLA's into position, makes it much easier to reinstall the valvetrain.



Back in the car and ready to rumble.


Hot tip for others having a go at this. Apparently its normal for the HLA's to make heaps of noise at startup, it takes a few minutes for it to settle down. I freaked out, pulled it all apart and checked it again. You live, you learn.