i am about to do the AU center console mod but i cant figure out how i could rewire my power windows to use aftermarket switches, when wiring do i have to use the circuit or can i just connect the wires already installed?

yes you can use your existing wiring, you just have to feed them to your new switches!!

This will work as long as your switch (a 3 way with on (up), neutral, on (down)) can connect to power and earth at the same time as the window motors run depending on direction of power. One direction of electrical flow will be up, and the other will be down.

Hey there EFNA...

Check out my build thread... I used BA Ghia Illuminating switches in mine... Didn't need 4 for starters (ED's only come in 4) and didn't like the ED switches...

Will gladdly assist in wiring these if you want (already have photos made up for them)

viewtopic.php?f=53&t=79040

thank timmy help would be great, did you do a tech doc? cant figure out how to run power to all the switches sinse only have 1 power wire in the loom

na i didn't actually...



Wont upload the other photo I have... It shows the similar thing... This view is looking at the back of my switch... A company called aerpro makes plugs that plug into factory harness plugs to aid in the install of aftermarket cd players (no cutting of orginal plug, just make up a patch harness)... Luck has it that the factory loom plug in the ED for the power windows is the same as the CD player plug... So I just ordered a aerpro adaptor... Cut off the small wires... Borrowed some 1.5mm flex from work (should handle 10 amps) and solder bigger wires onto the ends...

As for plugs for the switches, where the dash loom connects to the boor looms in EF/EL's one of the dash loom plugs will plug into the window switches... Took out the pins, cut off the small wires and soldered to the other ends of the 1.5mm flex...

In my case (2 power windows, EL XR trims) I had to bring the power to two window switches, and the negative had to go to each switch twice (the way they work) so I ended up with two positive tails and 4 negative tails in my loom... Just carefully with a stanley, cut out a middle section of the insulation, wrap a new length of wire around the bare bit and solder, and cover with heat shrink...

Simple as... If you want I can take photos of the patch harness I made up... Like I said had another photo of the switch, but wont upload...

Let me know anyway...

the biggest thing with window switches is they must be able to do a coss over effect to simply reverse the polarity to the regulator... If you go with just jaycar switches then you have a lot mor outside wiring plus diodes...

These have a small circuit board in the bottom allowing for the change over, it works straight up with the positive wire, but not with the negative (hence why it needs to be hooked to two pins)...

So I highly recommend getting proper window switches out of something... Much simpler...

Just made up a template and dripped a couple of holes, then went nuts with a tungsten blade in a hacksaw and then filed it for a nice neat fit...

Forgot to mention about that transistor too... It is only there for the illumination... As all wires that I could find in the car are powered when you turn the headlights on, this switch requires a wire to be grounded to turn on the lights... So when power runs along the blue wire into the transistor, it basically creates a circuit across the transistor grounding that orange wire out, turning on the LED's in it... smaller, quieter, easier than a relay... Just taped it down the power loom a bit so it didn't flex much when plugging and unplugging stuff (as the small leads brake off easy)... And the resistor is only a current limiter to the transistor... Stops it over feeding the LED's and burning them out with too much current, or over loading the transistor too...

Happy to explain more if you go this way...

Thanks,
Tim