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driftking2be |
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I am preparing my system for installation into my new vehicle. I had this system installed in my old vehicle but didn't think that I was getting the right power to my Sub and Speakers.
I am a low income earner, surviving on a pension, but would like to create a nice sounding budget sound system. What I am using: 260W [MOFSET 65X4] Eonon CD/DVD Player, model number EO646 http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Caravan-RV-or-Bo ... 1|294%3A50 Powervox AS-320AS [4X1400W Max / 4X140W RMS] 4 Channel Amplifier http://cgi.ebay.com.au/NEW-POWERVOX-560 ... dZViewItem ORION 10" 400W Sub [West Coast Customs] http://bigboys-customtoys.com/_produ..._WCC-104S.html MaxTurbo 6.5" 300W Speakers [With LED Lights][This ad is of the 500W versions] http://cgi.ebay.com.au/TWO-MaxTurbo-6-5 ... 4|294%3A30 Being a 4 Channel bridgeable amp, I thought that it may be enough to power up the Sub nicely. Yeah it sounds OK, but I don't think that I have it quite right. I did only have the Sub running through one channel, but wasn't getting the 'THUMP' that I think I should have been. I was running the two 300W Speakers through one channel also. I wasn't happy with it, so disconnected it all and am now trying to get it right. Taking into consideration, the above stated components, what would be the best/correct method of linking all this in? Is this amp capable of powering the 400W Sub and 300W Speakers? or will I require another amp? Help me get this right please! Last edited by driftking2be on Mon Jul 13, 2009 1:23 am, edited 1 time in total. |
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asizzy |
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Age 32 on Pension
_________________ AsIzZy |
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driftking2be |
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Yeah, bugga. I have been diagnosed with a 'Collapsing Spine'. I was told 4 years ago, that I would be in a wheel chair within two years. Well I'm still walking, but do suffer weak days.
So YEP, 32 and on a pension and yeah 'It Pees Me Off', but work places see me as a 'LIABILITY'. |
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shazza9275 |
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whats the rms rating on the coaxils ? have you got it all running ?
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driftking2be |
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{USERNAME} wrote: whats the rms rating on the coaxils ? have you got it all running ? The rms rating of the amp is 4X140W and the coax is 8ohm. The coax supplied with the Sub, was really thin and I wasn't happy with the quality of it. I consulted my friend who is an audio technition and he recommended going for some 8ohm coax. I have also been advised that I need to 'BRIDGE' the amp to 2ch, to get the right output to the Sub. I should hopefully have it all installed, when I get the car home on Sunday. |
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asizzy |
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yeah on my setup i've bridged 2 channels to the sub and the other 2 channels to the speakers each. And what kind of gauge power ground cables are you feeding to the amp?
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driftking2be |
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{USERNAME} wrote: yeah on my setup i've bridged 2 channels to the sub and the other 2 channels to the speakers each. And what kind of gauge power ground cables are you feeding to the amp? I'm not too sure of the rating of the actual [red]Pos/Neg [black] cables, but they are pretty thick and heavily insulated. These cables were supplied as a part of the amp kit. As for the 'GROUND' cable, I was using 'GREEN' cable, which was not quite as thick as the pos/neg. To be honest, I think it was slightly thicker than my speaker cable, with a power rating of 8ohm too. Don't quote me, It's just what I'm remembering off the top of my head. I had the 'GROUND' connected to a section of 'Bare Metal', in my spare wheel well. I was always suspicious of the 'GROUND' cable, cause the system used to 'HUM/BUZZ' when the car was running and used to squeal if I revved the engine too hard. Maybe I need to use a better quality 'GROUND' cable. |
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asizzy |
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how did you run your speaker, sub out cables? from the same side as you power cables?
So you have your rears and sub running of the amp and the fronts of the head unit?
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driftking2be |
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Yes, you've picked it. I was actually running the Sub off one channel and had the two 300W connected into another channel [so I was actually only using 2 of the 4 channels]. What I am planning to do now, is to purchase another matching Sub [I'm selling the 300W speakers with my old car] and bridging it to two channels, then running each Sub off two channels. This should give me a combined output of 280W per Sub. This is a little concerning to me, as the recommended 'CONSTANT' power rating of the Sub is 200W. Bridging to 280W output, would this be 'CONSTANT' power supplied to the Sub? or just the 'PEAK' power?
If you can't half tell, I'm only new at setting up the Sub and Amp. I usually stick with basic head unit and speaker systems, connecting the Sub/Amp just adds another dimension. As for the 'GROUND' cable, what would be the best cable to use as a 'GROUND'? |
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asizzy |
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Hey, im not a sound system expert as some guys on here that know their stuff, so dont go taking my word for word.
I will have to check exactly what i did with my setup and i dont have really good gear its a on low budget setup. So i have is two amps one subs and sony speaker on rear and alpine at front. Ill give you details on how i bridged them and what i connected to the amps when i check it, bit lazy atm. Your ground imo should at least be one size less then the power cable. And note you should put speaker and power cables on separate sides of the car, this will minimise and take away interference coming from the power cable. i have seen some ppl doing it the same side with no interference at all, but they have either used good quality cables and or just lucky that no interferences are occurring.
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driftking2be |
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{USERNAME} wrote: Hey, im not a sound system expert as some guys on here that know their stuff, so dont go taking my word for word. I will have to check exactly what i did with my setup and i dont have really good gear its a on low budget setup. So i have is two amps one subs and sony speaker on rear and alpine at front. Ill give you details on how i bridged them and what i connected to the amps when i check it, bit lazy atm. Your ground imo should at least be one size less then the power cable. And note you should put speaker and power cables on separate sides of the car, this will minimise and take away interference coming from the power cable. i have seen some ppl doing it the same side with no interference at all, but they have either used good quality cables and or just lucky that no interferences are occurring. thankyou for the tip on the power cables and speaker cables sizzy. That would explain a lot of the interference [hum/buzz] that I am getting through my system. I now have my AU home and am looking at designing a TWIN sub box and amp attached. I am planning to have each sub on roughly a 45deg angle [facing towards the centre of the car] carpeted on the outside and the amp mounted between the two subs. Being all black and silver should give the boot space a nice look. I'm just not looking forward to mounting the head unit and screen, cause it's gonna have to look ugly for a short time. It turns out that AU's can only support 'Single Din' systems unless you make a bracket to have the lower unit stepped forward. The only issue with this is that passengers will be able to through to the bask of the system, through the 'Unsightly' gap between the stereo and dash. My stereo is also very low budget, so I just have to do what I can afford to do, until I can afford a better head unit. [that's even if I am able to find something with the same features as my current system] |
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Stone |
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Since no one experienced has answered you in this forum, maybe you should ask on Mobile Electronics Australia forums. You'll get correct advice and learn a thing or two.
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JWM |
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What type of box are you using for your sub?
If you haven't already, build a custom box according to the manufactures specs on the sub... and I bet it'll sound great. What speakers are running in the front and rear? I'd probably try using the head unit to power the front and the rear speakers... and use 2 channels of the amp bridged to run the sub. But you could also; Bridge a couple of channels to make a channel for the sub. Then run the amp on the back speakers. Then use the head unit to run the front speakers. Or you could wire the front speakers to the amp if you wanted, and then use your head unit for your rear speakers. You might be best to buy another amp to run the sub, then have your 4 channel amp run your 4 front / rear speakers. Do you know how to set the gain / HPF / LPF etc? |
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