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tickford_6 |
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Posts: 6449 Joined: 11th Nov 2004 |
After any ones experiences with running a 16v power supply to the coil of a daily driven car.
I'd like to know what coil/coilpack you are using. how often you drive the car. if you do prolonged driving (trips over 60mins) If you have had any problems that were directly or indirectly caused by the 16 supply and what did you use to achieve the 16v supply. |
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benryanau |
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Nope, but it's not a bad idea in theory. Where did you hear about it?
I'm only aware of doing a remote coil/TFI mount (which is a good idea) and heavier gauge B+/gnd wiring (the OEM wiring is a little thin). Probably little benefit for stock setups, but LPG/boost/high comp yeah. EDIS/coilpack may have issues as the ECU monitors primary current, might throw a code plus risk the ECU's switching mosfets (not sure of FET spec there) but others should be fine. Two risks: -TFI module (overheat) -Coil flashover on HT/secondary Primary circuit is specced to run 7A max (nominal 14v). TFI has some resistance, bout 1 ohm iirc. Total primary circuit resistance looks to be about 2 ohm. Bringing B+ to 16V will take it from 7A (100W) to 8A (128W). Rewiring to the max could see this reach 10A (160W). You'd at least need to heatsink the TFI well for this which is a good idea in remote mount anyway. 150W is probably the max I'd put through it. You could achieve good results by rewiring the primary circuit with 12ga or less wire, but just banging 16V (without any other changes) into the TFI might be easier.. i The only practical option is to source a decent DC-DC boost converter that will do 16-20V@10A (150W min). It will need a big cap on it though otherwise the DC-DC converter will spit chips and either shutdown, blow up, or just sag in V+ as they don't like having almost dead shorts being banged across the output. Two options I found: http://www.powerstream.com/dc-12V-16V.htm ($~160) or you could try paralleling 2-3 of these: http://www.cutter.com.au/proddetail.php?prod=cut764 (~$90 ea) I reckon the best option is just to do a remote mount with heavy-gauge wiring to B+/ground. |
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tickford_6 |
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Posts: 6449 Joined: 11th Nov 2004 |
ICE ans JACOBS both do 16V units for use with ignition systems
I originally thought i had seen it mentioned on here a few years back, had hadn't thought much of it at the time, recently started re-reading some of my book collection and we started selling ICE ignitions at work, so it kind of got me thinking again. was mostly worried about damage to the ECU, I have an AU 6cyl on gas, |
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66 coupe |
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if your going to go to the extent of a 16v dc-dc converter, you might as well go multispark CDI
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benryanau |
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{USERNAME} wrote: if your going to go to the extent of a 16v dc-dc converter, you might as well go multispark CDI ..ahh, yeah |
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data_mine |
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{USERNAME} wrote: if your going to go to the extent of a 16v dc-dc converter, you might as well go multispark CDI Yep, provides the extra spark power you're after, while not over driving anything. The coil packs on the I6's are in a bad enough position and overheat anyway, running more power through them will kill them in short order. On my EL I ran a Crane HI-6 CDI and suitable coil (the regular coil will die real quick pushing CDI through it). Was good for a few extra kW across the rev range, and an overall stronger torque band.
_________________ 1998 DL LTD in Sparkling Burgundy, daily, 302W, stereo, slow |
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66 coupe |
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regular coil will be fine with a CDI,
I ran one for years on my supercharged EB. Of course you will get more spark energy from a specific CDI coil, but the stock one will be ok. |
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4LEDboy |
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When my AU engne goes in I'll be running the ICE system, the 16v booster and a 4100 series coil with there 9mm leads, I spoke to the bloke at ICE (nice bloke) and he said the ignition system is on the ED is OK for cammed motor, so just the booster, coil and leads would be fine (I was going to use there 7AMP unit)
_________________ {DESCRIPTION} < Click on it! You know you want too! Quote: Thats not the point *a**hole
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tickford_6 |
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Posts: 6449 Joined: 11th Nov 2004 |
{USERNAME} wrote: if your going to go to the extent of a 16v dc-dc converter, you might as well go multispark CDI I Have an MSD dis4 here in the shed. For reliability reasons i'll never use in on a road car again. It was worth power on the old EF but it failed, was repaired and failed again. Nothing like a CDI failing while your driving. the ICE 16V converter is cheap compared to a 4 channel CDI that need repair every few months |
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benryanau |
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I'd never seen the ICE 16v box before, thanks for the heads up!
So tickford_6, you've got an old dodgy MSD lying around? I'd be happy to buy it off you, how much do you reckon? Oh and yeah I know.. MSD - Might Spark Daily, My Spark Disappeared etc |
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tickford_6 |
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Posts: 6449 Joined: 11th Nov 2004 |
{USERNAME} wrote: I'd never seen the ICE 16v box before, thanks for the heads up! So tickford_6, you've got an old dodgy MSD lying around? I'd be happy to buy it off you, how much do you reckon? Oh and yeah I know.. MSD - Might Spark Daily, My Spark Disappeared etc well it would cost about $100 to have it fixed, they cost about $1000 new. it would be cheaper to buy three Street Fire CDI boxes then buy one new DIS-4 |
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