Reading alot on here lately about cam changes with standard ecu not being changed. Im still confused as every one has a different opinion.
I have GT40P yella terra heads with 1:72 roller rockers and a ED XR8 Sprint upper and lower manifold and also an Explorer upper and lower. I want to put the heads on and not sure which manifold set as yet. What cam (if any) should I put in my car to run with the standard ECU and orange injectors. It runs on lpg also and is in tip top shape (finally) with either fuel. It has extractors and is auto. Ill be doing the timing cover at the same time as its rooted. Should I change the harmonic balancer to a new one? (read somewhere it is a good idea to get a new one -or i read it wrong ) How much is a inlet manifold gasket kit worth and what part number is it? Where is the best place to get it? Also for the heads do I have to get new head bolts or can I use the old ones? And what head gaskets are recommended - how much?

cheers.

* Use the Sprint upper manifold as it has slightly more flow than the Explorer upper.
* When using a stock ECU, a good rule of thumb for selecting a cam is keeping the duration at about 225 or under. Any more and the stock ECU ( which is somewhat adaptable ) will struggle with the cam.
* The harmonic balancer has been known to fail after a decent period of running and a great balancer if yours is knackered would be the Powerbond version.
* Most folks are happy with Fel-Pro gaskets and most major performance outlets sell them; VPW, Rocket, HPW etc etc.
* As for head bolts, I wouldn't reuse the original headbolts as they have been stressed already. Get some ARP head bolts and be safe.

Not real cluey on cam specs, Is there a certain cam that will work very well off the shelf?



cheers

Lots of OTS cams will work with those heads.
I used to have a list some years ago which I put together showing me all the traditional cams as well as the Ford alphabet cams ~ and which RR ratios were applicable. I even included a whole bunch of U.S. cams just for a laugh and ran the whole lot of them through desktop dyno to compare the output differences and see where the power and torque levels differed. Now granted that desktop dyno is a software program, I used it more for just general research because in real life there are way too many factors and individual differences in everyone's motor for this to be a guarentee so treat it accordingly.
I still have a graph I saved some time ago when comparing a TFS1 to a Crane 2030 and have attached it. It's just to show that there is not much difference amongst some of the more well known OTS cams.

 

 

Attachments:

File comment: Just a basic comparison of the TFS1 and the Crane 2030 on a 5L with some slightly modified GT40P heads. TFS1_C2030.jpg [ 206.61 KiB | Viewed 176 times ]

Thanks Vic, looks like the TFS1. Do you need other stuff to install these cams or does the cam just go straight in?

How much is a TFS1 worth and where would you get one cheap?
And does any one know the part number for the Cobra inlet manifold lower gaskets and what there worth? And with head gaskets just any new AU 5.0 ones??

Well as I mentioned, there's not much between many of the stage one OTS cams, some peak better, some have a better midrange from low down and it all depends on what you want your engine to do which is what is most important.
( eg; the more area under the curve, the better )
Have a look at Crane's cams like the 2020, 2030, 2031, 2040 ( they all perform differently across the RPM range ) or some of the Crow cams - in fact I remember a few years ago that the Crow Cams outfit in Melbourne were pretty good on the phone if you gave them some details of your engine setup. They would be able to explain which sort of cam behaves in a particular way and you can make a better informed decision from their responses.
Ring around or talk to a performance workshop.