$1500 ????? Seems way over the top, unless you're getting a race engine shop to do the work, and even then it sounds high. My prices (in NZ) are

bore and hone = $180
Line bore = $400
Deck the block = $90
Welsh plugs = $10
Acid dip = $40

The stroker also requires cylinder bore notching. If the shop does a few they will have a jig. By hand it's slow, about 2 hours work with a die grinder for all 8. That's another $120.

If you get the main tunnel measured it probably won't need the line bore. More often than not they don't. Ditto the block decking. The only time I've ever done this was to raise compression.

If it's got SRP pistons, chances are fairly good it will have quality rods and crank. The cheapie kits usually have KB hypereutectic's. SPR's are over US$500 a set.

If you can get a 347 for 2k you're doing very well. I wouldn't think twice, or someone else will grab it from under you.

Yeh this is from race engine builders and everything costs more in Sydney

Basically $3000.00 for machining, assemble and blue print V8 engine block in Sydney for a race enging building shop.

U can buy kits with SRP pistons and its pretty common to have a SRP piston with a stroker windsor kit.

Pavtek have a 347 bottem ends with steal crank and H beam rods and SRP pistons for a tad over $5000.00 and its a brand new engine.

Like i said u think u might get away with it for $2000 but all the personal and friends labour invloved and labour and parts u have 2 pay for wont be worth it at the end, as it a big job removing 2 engines and installing them both again.

Maybe guys in WA charge less than Sydney engine builders

I spoke to th engine builder today and he should have the spec sheet at his work tomorrow for me to pick up. It has a forged Eagle crank and H-beams. I may be able to get a stock ELII motor for a reasonable price and will drop that into the other car and revert it back to stock. I may even stick my normal tweecer in there and get a bit more power out before selling it. We'll see. I do all my own tuning so there's no cost involved there. Getting the motor out of that car and the stock one in will be a weekend's work with a mate whose offered his services. I don't think selling it will be too much of a problem as it's very straight, in and out. I reckon selling it stock would be much more attractive to your normal Joe, rather than selling it with a worked motor which has it's quirks. Something that we can live with, but not someone wanting to get from A-Z.

The srps aren't compatible with the twisted wedge heads, so I was thinking of throwing a set of 185s on, get a trick flow box r manifold and tune it all up with the tweecer RT. I think I've sold myself on this and will make my decision after I have the parts list and have give it a thorough going over. I'l probably just sell my motor.

Oh yeah, I'll be stealing the EL GT brakes off it and whacking them on my car as well!

Is it a steal crank or cast???

Does it have ARP 2000 rod bolts???

Forged steel crank and rods. I don't know about the bolts but will know when I get the spec sheet.

i'd get it, 2k for a long 347 is a bargain, you'd have to try real hard to lose on that.