I really could'nt give a toss about your impressions of me & whether or not your impressed, your mate wants stuff removed to cover his tracks & it will be perfectly obvious to anyone who reads this who knows what. My first post, was directed to Ghia97 implying that as he had already changed the coil, so had done half the job, the next logical step was to replace the dizzy as a unit, nearly the cheapest & easiest way to do this. This was then turned into a crusade for original parts & you & your cronies slagging off at me , but anyway if anyones interseted enough to read the lot they'll get the picture. Your problem is my ego is just as big as yours but I have the mechanical expertise to back mine up. & my last word on this (thank f**k, I can already hear the typing) I have no doubt the original Bosch dizzy is a far better quality unit than any of the aftermarket ones (but they still break dont they). When I suggested an aftermarket one from Bursons it was because that was the easiest & cheapest way to get the car going now, which I thought was the object of the exercise. they can be bought cheaper on evilbay but postage time makes that impractical, & should there be warranty issues they can also be dealt with immediately, assuming that Bursons is close enough to you. & btw the instuctions you get with these dizzys states that the ignition coil should be replaced at the same time as the dizzy, so even correct technical instructions advise you to replace the "whole ignition" as arm79 puts it. That may have been the "whole ignition" in a pre computer car but its not the case with an EL. Then if your not happy with dizzy in the hole replace it when you can afford it with the Bosch unit. Tridon igntion modules had a bad rep at one stage (& kinda still do) but feedback gets back to these companies, normally unfortunately at our expense, but they do improve the product (not going to make much money if it keeps coming back, better to withdraw it from sale) how long have these aftermarket dizzys been about ? you don't think they've improved them significantly by now ?. I currently have one in my Futura wagon, & again make my point that if Bursons thought they were going to keep coming back they would'nt sell them. If I had been more financial at the time I would have preferred the Bosch unit to, but you can only spend as you've got. The aftermarket ones staying where it is now though, but should it break over the next few months I'll concede & put a Bosch one in. If it was bad enough quality to cause engine damage, then guess who would be held responsible for that. Thats it for me over & out but I have no doubt that the replies will keep a comin' coz some people have a hell of alot more time to devote to this than me. Cheers Shaun. A final p.s. to arm79, the one piece of useful advice you gave here re-: the plugging in & grounding of the dizzy to listen for injector pulses when turning the dizzy proves you have it in you to be helpful if you want to be, you & your mates need to stop trying to talk over everyones heads. & yes I was a dealership mechanic @ one stage, but it was a Holden dealership (DOH!) I was alot closer with the teacher/trainer bit was'nt I.

lol... Seriously.. Are you retarded or what?

f**k me..

What do you think sparked all this... By us suggesting exactly that. Turn the dizzy thats in the car now, and see if it causes the injectors and fuel pump to fire. With the whole purpose of determining if the internals of the dizzy are doing what they should without replacing it, which could potentially cost ghia97 money that wasn't required.

The only difference is we've suggested using the motor to turn the dizzy (as its still bolted in the car) rather than doing it by hand.

So you've gone and ranted on, calling us all morons, but in the end commented that what we were suggesting is sound and helpful advice.

I think you should get your medication dosage checked. I'll even make the appointment at the doctors for you.

Look, there is a high chance the hall effect sensor is dead, thats never been in dispute. But there are logical ways of determining this that don't require ghia97 to keep on swapping stuff until it eventually works...

What do I have to worry about if the posts stay? The fact that people will search for a solution to their car not starting, finding this thread and reading through it only to find some bloke that doesnt like anybody else having suggestions of how to find a problem?

This thread was started by ghia97 asking for help with his car that wont start.
He didnt start the thread to have the ramblings of some old mechanic, who feels the need to one-up everybody with his 30 yrs experience, filling it.
That's why I wanted all the garbage taken out, my responses to you included.

We all started out suggesting the same thing, you just didnt like the method put forward by Arm97 and myself and you started trying to discredit and belittle us from that point on. Who started the slagging again?

Before i start i have a small d**k and no b*lls, am no teacher, mechanic or IT dude, i am however interested to know DID THE POOR F**K GET HIS F**KING EL GOING OR F**KING NOT!!!!!!!!!!

Update, Spent all night pulling dizzy out, marked everything and had a mate help so going to finish it over the weekend and hopefully she fires up!

best of luck with it all mate keep us posted eh!

UPDATE!! New Dizzy in and bingo it started first shot. I looked at the old one and it looked fine so i dont know why it went bad but it looked like the original. I got a Bosch Genuine to be safe used but in VGC. Thank you for all your help guys. I only had ECU left after this. Im wrapped to have the Ghia going again!

Good work mate.

T2TE50 anyone? he also claimed to be an RACV Mech

Well done ghia 97 glad to see thebeast up and going, now you can just drive off and let everyone else bicker amongst themselves