Transmission refit questions
- center of torque converter on flywheel seems out of align?
- re alignment of spline, tip? (connecting new motor back to auto)
- fit new rear main seal (removal of flywheel)

Fan removal question
- 1 1/4"?
- method?

Front Air Con radiator, can this if damaged be changed over easily? tips?
Cheers!

P.S how many kilogram is the 4.0L motor?
T.a

Tried to "instant" download a workshop manual from Albany in N.S.W? still aint got it so its a bit difficult at the mome but we got the motor out tonite.

This can be a real PITA!!.

It once took me two hours to mate an auto to the back of my EL six. Use plenty of Lube on the spigot of the torque convertor (TQ), and make sure the TQ is all the way home in the box. Also check there is no spigot bearing in the end of the crank.



Don't know, but is a heavy sucker.


Cheers
BenJ

the engine weighs about 190kg.. without intake and exhaust manifolds..

Excellent replies. Thankyou. Got home round 12! time 4 a coupla. its been a hectic day coz we couldn't get a 32mm spanner (bloke at the Cowes Pro Joint reckons they don't make em anymore or they are hard to get ?!) to remove fan assembly. motor popped out of the ED good as BUT stuffed some of the fins (about 5-8 square inches) of the air con. The EB was a nite mare as mate was sure he popped out the bottom cover and bolts between the trans and motor but didn't so we were there literally shaking the motor around, which peaked me out after we realized and removed the plate accordingly.

no damage now out but ime still a bit iffy about anything we could of done (perhaps the seal on the trans). I have noticed when we peer into the torque where the trans spline come out seems that a circle at the very end of the recess in the torque is mis aligned. I have a good photo of this if that helps but everything else looks good. absolutely no other damage apart from a slightly bent metal fan blade.

re the air con, we downloaded the 2008 (Govt) Aust Automotive code of Practice for Control of refrigerant gases during manufacture, installation, servicing or de-commissioning of motor vehicle air conditioners. Can make that avail to the forum (?) interesting read and thought we better not just let the R134A just escape into the atmosphere. Is there some sort of simple bottle we can use or doctor up or procedure we can follow to (de-comission) the gas economically and safely here as there are babies in the house etcet.

we thought to quickly change the sump gasket, rocker cover gasket and rear main to alleviate what appears to be the sources of most of the oil leaks. any suggestions on other well known seals etcet we should change (now that the EB's recently re-headed motor is sitting happily in the middle of the garage)?

we are really rapt to of got a response and are pretty well ford fans so we thought we'd post some pretty cool shots of what went on and stuff just for experience for any other crew who need a quick reference like this thread. hopefully we won't get stuck on Monday as we now tidy up the EBs motor and refit to the ED. Phew!

nite all. cheers.

Started doing an engine swap on my EF tonight.
The only sump gasket I will use is a factory Ford 1.
The are a 1 piece rubber seal, not rubber at each end and cork sides (after market).

If any1 about would appreciate someone letting me know about 1 or 2 things.
we got the motor into the ed eventually with a lot of careful lowering and stuffing around. we ended up fitting the engine mounts after we recoupled the trans to the motor. it was difficult to bring the two aligned, as if the motor was slightly twisted but eventually we were pretty sure the flywheel had lined up properly into the torque.

through the starter hole i could free wheel the torque slightly to align the flywheel hole at the bottom of the motor so i could bolt 2 of the 4 bolts into the torque through the flywheel from access through the inspection plate. i think we have to now turn the crank around to do the other 2.

the motor went in pretty tight but now we are going to fix of the rest of the bell housing and fit the ancillaries like alt and air con.
We could only get a cork gasket for the sump out here at this time of year but made sure we followed all precautions and used a torque wrench to set the correct Nm on just about every fn bolt we were doing.

cylinder 5 spark plug is so tight it is ever so slowly releasing much to our sweating concern. we hope it will not snap off, it is that tight.

any tips on some things (mission critical stuff) to make sure we have checked or addressed in this motor changeover?

oh yeah, for some reason the alt bracket on the block was almost too short and was so very difficult to get on, like it was the wrong part.

were looking fwd to fitting off everything now we have returned the hoist and had a good rest.
ile get some photos up soon.

cheers.

Re spark plug, undo until it fets tight. screw it back in and repeat.
It will get further out each time.
Just got my motor back in, now to connect everything back up....