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| Scaffy |
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After getting my diff centre and axles fitted, there is a lot of noise coming from my rear end. To me, it seems there is too much backlash as it is pretty violent at low speeds and quite noisy when cruising at lowish revs with no load on the motor.
Is there any way of telling if backlash is set right? I've never really had any problems with it before and am concerned it may cause problems with my gears and the rest of the driveline if ignored. Chad
_________________ Trickflow Street Heat top end kit, 70mm BBK TB & EGR, 24lb injectors, Underdrives & 3.73s: 275rwhp - 13.15@105mph NA / 12.37@116mph N20 |
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| cjh |
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The only wat your gonna know is to remove the back cover set up a dial indicator, and measure what it is.................or take it back to where you got it done, and complain.
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| Scaffy |
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Yeah, my intention is to take it back if it turns out it is not right. I was hoping to be able to find out for sure before taking it back. I could go back and be told "we did this and that and the measurement is such and such which is the correct way to do it." Then I am left still unsure.
_________________ Trickflow Street Heat top end kit, 70mm BBK TB & EGR, 24lb injectors, Underdrives & 3.73s: 275rwhp - 13.15@105mph NA / 12.37@116mph N20 |
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| GASSA |
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Mate
get under the car and grab the diff flange if there is more than 5mm it is too much for a rebuild alternative if there is no movement there maybe to many shims in it which can make it moan gassa
_________________ When the clutch drops the bull s**t stops!!!!! |
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| Scaffy |
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There is a lot of play in the tailshaft when in neutral. I'd say there's 5mm or more. Will double check when I get a chance tomorrow if I remember. Out of interest, where do the shims go? I'm guessing they go behind either the crown or pinion gear to bring whichever one closer to the other. Is it really that difficult to shim it up yourself? If it's not done right, then I want to be able to learn how to do it myself, so if I do it and it's not right, then at least I can rectify it myself. Then, if I really screw it up, then I can learn from my mistake, buy the parts and fix it (hopefully without making the same mistake twice).
_________________ Trickflow Street Heat top end kit, 70mm BBK TB & EGR, 24lb injectors, Underdrives & 3.73s: 275rwhp - 13.15@105mph NA / 12.37@116mph N20 |
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| cjh |
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Scaffy wrote: There is a lot of play in the tailshaft when in neutral. I'd say there's 5mm or more. Will double check when I get a chance tomorrow if I remember. Out of interest, where do the shims go? I'm guessing they go behind either the crown or pinion gear to bring whichever one closer to the other. Is it really that difficult to shim it up yourself? If it's not done right, then I want to be able to learn how to do it myself, so if I do it and it's not right, then at least I can rectify it myself. Then, if I really screw it up, then I can learn from my mistake, buy the parts and fix it (hopefully without making the same mistake twice). There is more to it than just moving the pinion in & out ( pinion height ), there is also moving the crown wheel ( centre ) across too, and getting the "drive" & "coast" patterns right.....as well as the right backlash on top of that, then, still having the right bearing preloads on both the pinion & the carrier. There is a reason why it takes 4 years to be a Motormechanic.
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| fairlane6970 |
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i had a nine inch rebuilt many moons ago and f**k was it noisy and clunky - didn't like corners either at first, but it did settle in.
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| cjh |
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fairlane6970 wrote: i had a nine inch rebuilt many moons ago and f**k was it noisy and clunky - didn't like corners either at first, but it did settle in. That sounds like the LSD pack wasn't soaked for a period of time prior to installation.
_________________ http://youtu.be/jJTh9F3Vgg0 |
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| Scaffy |
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cjh wrote: Scaffy wrote: There is a lot of play in the tailshaft when in neutral. I'd say there's 5mm or more. Will double check when I get a chance tomorrow if I remember. Out of interest, where do the shims go? I'm guessing they go behind either the crown or pinion gear to bring whichever one closer to the other. Is it really that difficult to shim it up yourself? If it's not done right, then I want to be able to learn how to do it myself, so if I do it and it's not right, then at least I can rectify it myself. Then, if I really screw it up, then I can learn from my mistake, buy the parts and fix it (hopefully without making the same mistake twice). There is more to it than just moving the pinion in & out ( pinion height ), there is also moving the crown wheel ( centre ) across too, and getting the "drive" & "coast" patterns right.....as well as the right backlash on top of that, then, still having the right bearing preloads on both the pinion & the carrier. There is a reason why it takes 4 years to be a Motormechanic. Cheers for clearing that up for me cjh. I had a feeling there'd be more to it - hence not that many people doing it themselves. But hey, given the chance and the right guidance, I'd still probably try and give it a crack myself like I did with tuning my car. I've always wondered, why does it take 4 years to become a mechanic? 
_________________ Trickflow Street Heat top end kit, 70mm BBK TB & EGR, 24lb injectors, Underdrives & 3.73s: 275rwhp - 13.15@105mph NA / 12.37@116mph N20 |
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