When sound proofing doors, does anybody bother doing the outer skin on the doors? To stop the sound getting out through the doors? Or do you just line all of the holes behind the actual door skin?

I'm not sure what to do.

when I put my elec windows and new door trims on I am going to line mine with a thick underlay to quiet them down!

are you going to just line between the door and the skin?

I was thinking to deaden the outer skin, to keep the sound in the car, make it more like a sturdy sealed enclosure

try this:
http://www.caraudioaustralia.com/conten ... ntentID=19

Sound deaden the whole lot.
You need to try and create a sealed enclosure int he door cavity so using thin mdf and dynomat or equivlant is good for that.

Then use a bulk adding sound mat on the outter door skin to stop ringing on the metal and reverberation and then cost the whole lot with a sounddeadening paint like G-spot to cover all the hard to get areas. should take approx 2-3hrs to do 2 front doors and cost about $100 in sound deadening products.

You will be amazed at the difference of a properly sound deadened car...

That's what I wanted to hear Pyroay, Thanks. I really want to do the proper job this time and make my speakers sound their best.

I'll get going on it as soon as I get the time.

I know my amps have been delivered, just waiting on OCS to get my speakers delivered.

How much more weight does it add per door, do the hinges suffer alot of wear, a door on a show car is hardly opened daily is the main point of what I am asking.

I cant comment on a show car as i dont know anyone who owns one, mine is a daily driver and the door gets opened a lot.

It does not add much weight.

The stick on stuff weight 1kg or so and thje paint is just ni a 1kg tin.
The speaker itself and any fibreglassing of it are the things that may add bulk. I only have 4" in my doors so it's not too much of a problem.

Nice one Phil - that's the guide I used too

Yep as Aaron has said...deaden the whole lot if you can - you won't regret it - you're not doing your speakers justice if you don't

If you're really keen, seal up the access holes in the door skeleton with thin (3mm) pieces of MDF to help seal them up...the inner door skin foam (well EF/EL's have it...dunno bout EA-ED?) works pretty well when the trim is back on but yeah depends how 'die-hard' you are.

I used Stinger Roadkill Expert for my front Alpine SPX-137A's and it has really done wonders...it does add a bit more weight...deadening isn't light stuff...but not enough to cause problems with the door sagging IMHO...in saying this I did have problems with my old car - I had Utopia 165W3 with most of the components mounted into the door - ie 4" mid, 6.5" woofer and the huuuuge 3 way passive crossover - it did make the 2 front doors sag a bit but I guess there's always a compromise...I did not sound deaden the doors of my wagon though.

Cheers,
Steve

what i would like to stop is road noise. To stop this wouldi have to put mdf around the wheel arches and what else woul need to be covered. I am not up to the sound deading in the doors because going down chapel, i like to be heard (pathetic i know but i am still 18).

Cheers