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weeman |
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When I was using the MS only fuel, I used the tach single from under the dash.
Now the MS is running ignition as well, I have completely removed the stock ECU. |
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weeman |
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When I was using the MS for fuel only, I used the tach single from under the dash for the MS.
Now the MS is running ignition as well, I use PIP & have completely removed the stock ECU. |
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viper1431 |
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Cheers
Another quick Q, i just want to make sure i have it right.. under engine constants/injector control i have it on 2 injections per cylcle and alternating. Is this right for these engines? |
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weeman |
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Mine is set to 2 injections per cycle & simultaneous.
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fordriver1 |
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{USERNAME} wrote: MS2 will wire straight up to the TFI dizzy. To use coilpacks you need an EDIS6 module which is only available in the US (and costs ~$60).
diyautotune now have the modules required to wire into coil packs without the use of an edis6. they are the princely sum of $8.50au each (3 required).
_________________ there are three types of people in this world:
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viper1431 |
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Hey stockstandard, regarding this "I still haven’t got something im happy with for the BBM manifolds, but if you keep total advance down you shouldn’t have trouble (say 30 degrees)"
Just wondering if you've sorted out a decent timing map for the BMM manifold? Do you keep the total/wot timing down untill the manifold switches at 3800rpm or so and then boost it up to 30-33degrees or how are you doing it? |
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bradders |
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{USERNAME} wrote: {USERNAME} wrote: MS2 will wire straight up to the TFI dizzy. To use coilpacks you need an EDIS6 module which is only available in the US (and costs ~$60). diyautotune now have the modules required to wire into coil packs without the use of an edis6. they are the princely sum of $8.50au each (3 required). where do you wire these into the msii? i haven't found anything on the megamanual about driving multicoilpacks directly
_________________ PH 4480 racing extractors
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4LEDboy |
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{USERNAME} wrote: {USERNAME} wrote: {USERNAME} wrote: MS2 will wire straight up to the TFI dizzy. To use coilpacks you need an EDIS6 module which is only available in the US (and costs ~$60). diyautotune now have the modules required to wire into coil packs without the use of an edis6. they are the princely sum of $8.50au each (3 required). where do you wire these into the msii? i haven't found anything on the megamanual about driving multicoilpacks directly http://www.diyautotune.com/tech_article ... squirt.htm
_________________ {DESCRIPTION} < Click on it! You know you want too! Quote: Thats not the point *a**hole
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bradders |
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lol thanks, i did find it in the end. damn i get so distracted round exam times.
whats the updates on people progress? just so everyone knows, i'm planning on a MSII install on my AUI over this summer; built the thing ages ago for my EB (now i'm gonna have to disconnect and resolder some things for the multicoil pack!) Theres been talk of installing the EA thermostat housing for multiple temperature sensors. What i am going to do, is any sensor at risk of changing due to a split, i'm going to use a local op-amp in voltage follower mode, thus i could take as many taps off of them as i want. Instead of going for the EDIS-6 (i found the module on the net today for 36US) i'm going to mod the MSII for three coils. I'm going to take heaps of pictures and try and make a guide so that others with AU's can attempt a direct drive coil pack (do something a little less brief than in the other guides, its fairly daunting when it says "cut R56, solder...". The plan is to tap off all the sensors (and buffer them if required) then run the MSII in paralell with the stock ECU, as time goes by i'll systematically snip the ECU stock wire and transfer that to the control of the MS. Probably gonna start with fuel management because the old girl is heavy as. I'll never completely remove the old ECU, i'll leave things such as thermofans, immobilizer (maybe not), curtesy lights, fault codes... up to the stock ECU (maybe oneday i'll get round to those things, but i'm sure i can think of more interesting uses of the MS' spare outputs). Sorry if i'm hijackking the thread, i hope there is alot of attention brought to the thread i'm really impressed by stockstandards progress and i hope it inspires others to join in!
_________________ PH 4480 racing extractors
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4LEDboy |
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Hey mate, I'd love to hear some more about it!
post up some more in my thread here I'm about to fit an MS to my ED with an AU motor using coilpacks (but probably with the EDIS6 module) ecu-fuel-system-eec-f21/megasquirt-time-t84470.html
_________________ {DESCRIPTION} < Click on it! You know you want too! Quote: Thats not the point *a**hole
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bradders |
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{USERNAME} wrote: MS2 will wire straight up to the TFI dizzy. To use coilpacks you need an EDIS6 module which is only available in the US (and costs ~$60). hay! i've just got my car up and running haven't had a chance to tune it yet, you can see my progress here: viewtopic.php?f=21&t=84470&start=60 I flashed the chip with the ms2extra code and installed additional insulated gate bipolar transistors to drive the multi-coil pack directly. in my opinion this rocked! no messing about with advance on the dizzy. i bought a wideband o2 sensor (LC1) from diyautotune, i got it for ~$240aus after postage with a gauge, installed that today. i kept the old ecu for the a/c, automatic transmission and thermofans. i put connectors on both ecu's (fuel n spark) so that if i had probs with the ms2e i could switch over so i could still use the car for work. the lc1 has two outputs, one emulates a narrowband so that goes to the stock ecu and the other is wideband of course. i installed the eb thermostat housing to get the additional sensor although i still need to install an additional air temp sensor as the stock ecu seems to switch the baising resister at a certain temp. i used the variable reluctance circuitry obviously, there was one issue at first. ford put a dc offset on the signal, which turned out to be genious! using a multimeter, i adjusted the comparasin voltage on the opamp to match the dc offset on the VR sensor, then used about 2/2.5 turns of the hysteresis resistor. The result was perfect sync!!! without requiring running the sensor to the ms ground. when you think about the ac nature of the vr signal it makes alot of sence to have an offset because you can have a very robust signal with hysteresis. so i tired to use fuel only to start off with, this was very difficult for two reasons at the time i only had a narrowband sensor, and the stock ecu would advance and retard all over the place. so i decided to take control of spark using the new additional outputs that i had installed with the new igbt's. Initially i was met with catastrophy, i wired up the output connected to R26 to coil 1, R27 to coil 2 and R29 to coil 3. I turns out that the coil outputs from the ms2 were 26,29 and 27 (these might not be familiar, but if you look at the component diagram it will make sense) so i was firing in the TOTALLY WRONG ORDER! there was no damage lukily enough, although i think i nearly flooded the engine. i worked out what was going wrong and finally put the coils in the right order along with connectors so i could swap more easily. i was really pleased when the car started first time no worries. but there was a new problem, the stock ecu could somehow tell it wasn't igniting the coils, so it leaned the fuel out to nothing! so i had to take control of both the fuel and the igntion at the same time to make any further progress. fortunatly the connectors that i fitted made this alot easier. while i had been playing around my LC1 had arrived so i installed that. the install of the LC1 was a dream really, nothing too complicated at all, initialliy i was going to join it into the wiring loom near the fuse panel next to the driver (and cut wires in difficult locations before changing my mind) the cable reached all the way from the exhaust to the ECU's at the front passenger side. so i installed everything there, i utilized one of the red leads from the stock ecu to power it (was a little concerned as it requires 5amp) but no fuses blew and nothings caught on fire so all good. i didn't even bother configuring the lc1 i used used output 1 for the stock ecu (simulated narrow band) and output 2 for the ms2, (configured the ms2 to match default settings) i couldn't wait for my fiance to get home and help me tune, so i shifted and scaled the VE map (provided by coupe 66) to give me a slightly rich mix, i also fiddled around with the O2 closed loop. I took the car for a drive, there were moments where i could tell it was leaning out a little bit, but everything was fine, very smooth and fuel economy appears to have improved!! (too early to tell tho) The wideband sensor really is the icing on the cake it makes a huge!! difference!! especially in closed loop control with an essentially untuned map. i got a fairly major advance ~22 degrees at 700 rpm didn't really get much past 2500 (under load) but running around 36-40 deg advance at 2500 rpm. off load, i took it up to ~4000 rpm where the advance was about 40 deg. No knocks as far as i could tell, but the throttle response is amazing, soooo much better than the stock ecu, i think the stock ecu was always picking up knocks when there wernt any so it was always retarded. I can't believe how well this is working essentially untuned in closed loop mode!!! to future squirters, consider the firmware upgrade to extra!, install the additional igbt's (i have two spare to sell actually), drive those coils directly and invest in an LC1!! the ms2e and the car just loves it and so do i. These are still early days, i got some pictures of the hardware mods in the link i posted above along with the day-to-day f**k ups and events. I just had to post in here to let everyone know about how brilliant the wideband o2 sensor is along with the extra upgrade. The EDIS packs are obsolete now.
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nathp89 |
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Age: 35 Posts: 6 Joined: 23rd Mar 2010 Ride: AU Fairmont sedan 99 model Location: Shanghai,CN |
would that work in an AU?
_________________ live fast die fun >< |
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bradders |
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lol i'd hope so, the car is an AU and i drove it to uni today (without the stock ecu driving the fuel injection or the coils)
Further update, i don't think the DIY manifold airtemp sensor is working all that well, turns out its a little lean when cold and a little rich when warm. I've got a bit on some kickass RTD's that should work better, alternativly i'll try a K-type thermocouple along with a thermocouple amplifier of course. On other notice, DIYAUTOTUNE now have the MSIII!!! so now its possible to have an install like mine+ cam sensor, knock sensor, sequential individual injection and COIL ON PLUG!!! heaps of other s**t!!!!!
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