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| hans hartman |
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{USERNAME} wrote: {USERNAME} wrote: If your frost plugs are steel, it is a very good idea (as Hans suggested) to change them to brass while the engine is out. A $15 investment that ensures no problems for many years to come. With steel plugs you never know how much they have corroded until they leak. Then it's a difficult job to change them in the car. So should i only change the 7-8 plugs on the side of the block or do i change the one at the rear of the motor as well. cheers all of them,unless you want to pull the motor out again to do the rear one you didnt change the first time********you get a plus-paint the rear as well,hows the crank oil seals,front and rear?
_________________ R.I.P HANS HARTMAN |
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| xafalcon |
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There are 3 on each side of the block and one on each end of each cylinder head. Total of 10. The large one at the back of the block above the crankshaft seals the camshaft tunnel and doesn't need to be changed as it seals oil not water.
_________________ XA Faimont 351C, AU2 XR8 Manual 5.0, DA LTD 5.0, Mk1 Capri 5.0, 1995 Mustang 5.0, EF2 XR8 Manual, EF2 Fairmont Ghia 5.0, AU3 XR8 Auto, AU2 XR8 Auto, AU2 XR8 Manual Ute, TE Cortina 5.0 Manual, DU LTD 5.0 soon to be manual |
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| nannas_ed |
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{USERNAME} wrote: There are 3 on each side of the block and one on each end of each cylinder head. Total of 10. The large one at the back of the block above the crankshaft seals the camshaft tunnel and doesn't need to be changed as it seals oil not water. yeh sweet, thats what i wanted to know. i only want to change the plugs that have water jackets behind them. im gonna do the 6 on the block and leave the 4 head welsh plugs alone as they are new. cheers
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