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Shifteh |
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ive just pulled one out of the block im doing up and well, can you guys tell me anything/what needs to be done
heres the bearings, do they look like theve been flogged?? differant color shade at bottom of bore??? Pistons Does the bore look okay??? need hone??? any info would be geat
_________________ Crank Assembly balanced, HV oil pump, ACL Trimetal bearings, "1 extra oil clearance taking to around 0.0650-0.0700 on mains and big ends, Moly rings,, Xr6 Cam, POD ( Possibly oversize injectors), Block, Head, Timing cover, belt idler, Alternator,painted in ford light blue Last edited by Shifteh on Sat Apr 10, 2010 4:00 am, edited 1 time in total. |
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EF Wagon |
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Posts: 69 Joined: 27th Dec 2006 Ride: EF Wagon Location: Canberra - not as bad as you think |
I think it comes down to what your time's worth. If you can afford the time to pull it all apart again, you could take the risk and re-use existing parts. Also need to consider how many km the engine has already done and how long you're planning on keeping the car for.
Personally, I'd at least put in new rings and bearings as well as reconditioning the head. Take the block to an engine shop to get checked out and at least have the bores honed (or buy a hone and DIY) while you've got the engine apart. Good on you for having a go.
_________________ 96 EF Wagon, PRINS VSI LPG, Wade 1636, 4480's, Redback zorst, Metalcat, 3 angle valve job, .5mm overbore, hypertec pistons, shaved head (because the head was banana shaped when I brought it), Tickford 16" alloys, KYB shocks, 30mm sway bar, 1 1/2 degrees negative camber, tow bar, roof racks. |
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Shifteh |
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also the pistons have an acl stamp, is this stock? also ford stamp ?????
_________________ Crank Assembly balanced, HV oil pump, ACL Trimetal bearings, "1 extra oil clearance taking to around 0.0650-0.0700 on mains and big ends, Moly rings,, Xr6 Cam, POD ( Possibly oversize injectors), Block, Head, Timing cover, belt idler, Alternator,painted in ford light blue |
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tickford_6 |
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Posts: 6449 Joined: 11th Nov 2004 |
they are stock pistons. ACL supplied ford.
Your pistons are scuffed and if it where my engine i would be replacing them. you need to show us photos of the loaded bearings. (the bearing shell from the rod, not the cap. and the bearing the main cap not the bearing from the block. Either way you will be using new bearings. the size will come down to how your crank measures. take some more photos with good room lighting and no flash. and please stop making new threads for the same thing all the time. |
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Shifteh |
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thanks tickford_6
ill take some more pics soon
_________________ Crank Assembly balanced, HV oil pump, ACL Trimetal bearings, "1 extra oil clearance taking to around 0.0650-0.0700 on mains and big ends, Moly rings,, Xr6 Cam, POD ( Possibly oversize injectors), Block, Head, Timing cover, belt idler, Alternator,painted in ford light blue |
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nalane |
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You've got it apart that far have it dipped and checked. Replace minimum rings and bearings and every seal and gasket on it. Nothing worse than dropping in a new donk and have it piss oil everywhere.
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Shifteh |
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im thinking get it mesured and ill get all new pistons / bearings
why go to all this trouble if im not going to do it properley,,, lol i would kill if i just get it out drive up my street and some clunk sound appears is the acl race series actually differant from stock types?
_________________ Crank Assembly balanced, HV oil pump, ACL Trimetal bearings, "1 extra oil clearance taking to around 0.0650-0.0700 on mains and big ends, Moly rings,, Xr6 Cam, POD ( Possibly oversize injectors), Block, Head, Timing cover, belt idler, Alternator,painted in ford light blue |
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EF Wagon |
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Posts: 69 Joined: 27th Dec 2006 Ride: EF Wagon Location: Canberra - not as bad as you think |
I'd sugest going to a few engine shops and find out what they use and getting some quotes. I found the engine shops will give you good advice about what's good value and what isn't. I ended up with 'hypertec' brand pistons (Taiwan) and was very happy with them. All weighed within less than a gram of each other. The engine shop was also cheaper for parts than Repco, Autopro, etc.
Even consider giving the engine shop all your engine components and let them do all the machine work and reasembly. Will save you a lot of running around and having to buy tools like ring compressors, micrometers, torque wrenches, scales, etc.
_________________ 96 EF Wagon, PRINS VSI LPG, Wade 1636, 4480's, Redback zorst, Metalcat, 3 angle valve job, .5mm overbore, hypertec pistons, shaved head (because the head was banana shaped when I brought it), Tickford 16" alloys, KYB shocks, 30mm sway bar, 1 1/2 degrees negative camber, tow bar, roof racks. |
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Shifteh |
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scales?
got tourqe wrench and angular, basically im hopeing they will mesure it and tell me weither i can just slap std's back in or a rebore
_________________ Crank Assembly balanced, HV oil pump, ACL Trimetal bearings, "1 extra oil clearance taking to around 0.0650-0.0700 on mains and big ends, Moly rings,, Xr6 Cam, POD ( Possibly oversize injectors), Block, Head, Timing cover, belt idler, Alternator,painted in ford light blue |
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elvondel |
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hey mate, just thought id offer another opinion.
although its almost impossible to tell from the photos, the bore looks glazed. now im not to sure about this one, but i assume the scuffs on the pistons are from contact with the bore? either way, a new set of acl pistons and rings are only a few hundred. those bearing are fairly worn so you'd want to replace them anyway. from memory acl rings are only about 200 for the whole set. one thing ive learnt with my car is never do s**t half assed. never guess. never assume. i had my engine rebuilt by a mate about 18 months ago. he had a manual from a ed or somthing, assumed it would be the same. turned out the thrust bearings were in different positions. i assumed the movement was worn crank. $800 later with a brand new for crank, same problem. then i rebuilt it the 2nd time, $200 for another set of bearings. we thought the cog on the front of the crank could be worn, but had no visual damage, so we put it in. a slight burr on the cog cause a horrible timing chain noise which was unbearable. 3rd time rebuilt, with new cog, new timing chain, and new seals for the 3rd time. you could risk putting those pistons back in, but if anythings wrong, your going to destroy your new bearings quick as, and might not even gain anyhting from your rebuild. for the sake of a few weeks extra saving, i would get yourself new pistons, rings, bearings, and personally i would bore the block 20thou so u know its perfect. you should be able to get all that for about $1000. then you can be sure youve got a nice solid bottom end, get the most in terms of performance and reliabilty out of the rebuild and your not risking using original pistons that have scuffs, and heavy ware to the bearings... my bearings didnt look that bad after 270xxx km |
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Shifteh |
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thanks , thats the plan btw
blocks going in on payday to get checked and maby bored im definatly getting new pistons Whats about con rods???
_________________ Crank Assembly balanced, HV oil pump, ACL Trimetal bearings, "1 extra oil clearance taking to around 0.0650-0.0700 on mains and big ends, Moly rings,, Xr6 Cam, POD ( Possibly oversize injectors), Block, Head, Timing cover, belt idler, Alternator,painted in ford light blue |
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Johnson stroker |
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unless there is scoring on the sides of the bores and or lips on the tops, a hone will suffice. depending on the overall condition of the block, if the score are too deep or lips to steped depends on the size of the overbore that may be required.
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Shifteh |
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doesant look like its scored , just have to wait till it gets checked
_________________ Crank Assembly balanced, HV oil pump, ACL Trimetal bearings, "1 extra oil clearance taking to around 0.0650-0.0700 on mains and big ends, Moly rings,, Xr6 Cam, POD ( Possibly oversize injectors), Block, Head, Timing cover, belt idler, Alternator,painted in ford light blue |
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