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Daniel |
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ok, need to know where the front tweeter speaker wires run to down the dash, is it easy to re wire or is it easier to just use the existing wire and find the cable at the bottom (where?) and go from there?
Thanks guys.
_________________ BF Typhoon, Dejavu - 6sp Auto, Leather, Sunroof, 19"s, Electric Pedals, Tint, FPV Sports Wheel, FPV Mats. |
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snap0964 |
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{USERNAME} wrote: ok, need to know where the front tweeter speaker wires run to down the dash, is it easy to re wire or is it easier to just use the existing wire and find the cable at the bottom (where?) and go from there? Probably easier to use existing wiring - the tweeters are connected directly to their respective door speaker. You should be able to identify the colour codes by checking the tweeter wire ends, but sing out if you need them.
Thanks guys.
_________________ 96 XH Longreach 'S': LPG, Alarm, 3.23:1 LSD, Cruise, Trip Comp, ABS, Power Windows, Mid Series Dome Lt, Climate Ctrl |
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Daniel |
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{USERNAME} wrote: {USERNAME} wrote: ok, need to know where the front tweeter speaker wires run to down the dash, is it easy to re wire or is it easier to just use the existing wire and find the cable at the bottom (where?) and go from there? Probably easier to use existing wiring - the tweeters are connected directly to their respective door speaker. You should be able to identify the colour codes by checking the tweeter wire ends, but sing out if you need them.Thanks guys. So what your saying is the midrange speaker and the tweeter are recieveing full range frequency? Isnt that a BAD thing for tweeters and in most cases midranges? If you know where the tweeter joins onto the main speaker wire thatd help me out a heap - all i can see is bundles of wires everywhere lol.
_________________ BF Typhoon, Dejavu - 6sp Auto, Leather, Sunroof, 19"s, Electric Pedals, Tint, FPV Sports Wheel, FPV Mats. |
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snap0964 |
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{USERNAME} wrote: So what your saying is the midrange speaker and the tweeter are recieveing full range frequency? They are hooked up in parallel.{USERNAME} wrote: Isnt that a BAD thing for tweeters and in most cases midranges? I suppose it depends on the speaker freq ranges - I think you'll find the std setup speakers are just multi range speakers and handle it okay, they're not a particularly high performance speaker. This is in contrast to a high end home system for example, where you'll find the speakers handle specific freq ranges, and have crossovers as well.{USERNAME} wrote: If you know where the tweeter joins onto the main speaker wire thatd help me out a heap - all i can see is bundles of wires everywhere lol. I don't know for sure where this is - easiest way is to note the wire colours at the tweeter connections, find them on the radio cassette plug, find where they are coming in from the door, and search back to a common point - although you'll find the looms are wrapped, you may find a connector. Perhaps easier way is to find the door wires, cut them, and continue them separately back to the radio cassette. I'd say you should go the option with the least work - leave the wiring as it is, and install your new speakers if that's what you're doing - normally you'll find the higher market auto speakers have a crossover (which may be as simple as a filter capacitor) on the speaker itself - dual cone speakers are a good example - the ones with the tweeter sitting separately on top of the mid/woofer.
BTW - What exactly do you want to do ???
_________________ 96 XH Longreach 'S': LPG, Alarm, 3.23:1 LSD, Cruise, Trip Comp, ABS, Power Windows, Mid Series Dome Lt, Climate Ctrl |
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Daniel |
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Im just replacing the stock speakers; amps are yet to go in as its a work in progress - not that it bothers me having no sound for a lilttle while.
The stock speakers had a filter cap soldered onto them for mmory when i pulled em out; yet to install the tweeters is all and id wish to run seperate wires for the tweeters/mids.
_________________ BF Typhoon, Dejavu - 6sp Auto, Leather, Sunroof, 19"s, Electric Pedals, Tint, FPV Sports Wheel, FPV Mats. |
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snap0964 |
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{USERNAME} wrote: Im just replacing the stock speakers; amps are yet to go in as its a work in progress - not that it bothers me having no sound for a lilttle while.The stock speakers had a filter cap soldered onto them for mmory when i pulled em out; yet to install the tweeters is all and id wish to run seperate wires for the tweeters/mids. I'd figured they'd might have a cap fitted - I suppose as I say your best option would be to follow the door speaker wiring back as far as practicably possible (from the door toward the stereo), cut the wires, terminate the end coming from the stereo(this will now be your line up to the tweeter), and wire your door speakers back to the stereo - that way you can be sure you have separate lines for each speaker, otherwise you won't be able to tell whether you've cut before or after where the tweeters join up with the door speakers - if you know what I mean ??
_________________ 96 XH Longreach 'S': LPG, Alarm, 3.23:1 LSD, Cruise, Trip Comp, ABS, Power Windows, Mid Series Dome Lt, Climate Ctrl |
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msman |
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u can rewire the new tweeters fairly easily i did it it took like 2 mins.
remove that dash cover at top put in new tweeters. remove front dash. u'll see that all of the wires enter at the middle at the top. now look under the dash and u see some light(looking behind ur centre vent) feed a hard wire thru from bottom(behind centre vent) and then feed it down below to ur hu, u will have to tape it to the side of ur climate control so it does not get stuck between the centre vents. and now extend it out to where the x-over is. i put them behind my ashtray on the bootom, with the steel frame separatein them from hu. u'll need double sided tape as the screws will be an a***.
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