Hey guys, my xg ute has been giving me some problems the last 6 months and i am finally getting around to fixing it.
I have been having 5 second hang time every time i hit the accelerator before returning to normal idle and sometimes in the morning it hesitates big time on fuel but after 1 minute will be good as gold.

The car is duel fuel and I have done the BBM conversion using an EL Auto ECU with the resistor tricking trans temp and that the car is in neutral. (have confirmed ecu is getting 2.97v which means it is in neutral)

I did a engine running diagnostic and got the following codes:

41 "o2 sensor running lean"
Thats okay i will replace it, it shows a constant 0.84v at the ecu end and isnt fluctuating, so is definently stuffed

52 "Power steering pressure switch circuit, Open Circuit"
As I have only got the old school steering box I need to find a way to fake whatever signal that the ecu wants. Any ideas?

12 "ISC circuit faulty" I am running an EB stepper motor on the BBM, i dont think this should cause a problem. I also have a constant 12v to the power wire as when the car switches to gas having 12v on this wire keeps the injectors firing. Also when i was doing the bbm the capacitor (i think) that earths this loom fell off and i tried to re solder it but it may not be working. The capacitor is that silver looking thing that earths onto where the coil connects on the block. Could this be the problem? what do you guys think?

67 "Incorrect air conditioning or neutral drive switch input signal"
Im not sure why i am getting this error when i have done the resistor trick and confirmed that between pin 30 and 46 is reading 2.97v. So why am i getting this message?


Any help at all would be appreciated guys. This problem has been driving me nuts for a while and I really need other peoples experience to help me solve it. I can fix the o2 sensor problem no worries but the rest is confusing me. I dont want to take it to an auto electrician because they will problem charge mega bucks and then i will probably end up still having the same problems afterwards.

Please help. Cheers

Okay guys just realised that these codes are from an EL ECU and i was using the codes from my workshop manual EB2 to ED. Could someone please confirm that these codes are still all correct from the older model to the newer model with their el workshop manual?

Cause I read on the forum that code 12 can mean Airbag issues which i havent got in my xg ute either lol

I thought el used a three digit error code!

nah thats EF's I believe. EL's are just 2

No both ef/el i6 and v8 use 3 digit codes.
are you sure you have the right ecu fitted. It should spit back a code at the end that identifies the ece with a number.

I reckon it spits back a 7 at the end but since i was reading the codes for 2 digit codes then all my previous data is incorrect. Its weird though as it seemed to give the the fault codes for what i already thought might have been the problem. But yeah as you said if it is 3 digit codes i guess it is. I think this will be a job for next weekend for me to do!
Thanks dude. I will post back with my results.

If it is an el ecu the last code it spits back should be 9xx where xx tells you what spec it is, ie falcon, fairmont, xr6, auto manual etc.
I think you need to run the tests again useing 3 digit numbers, both the koeo and koer tests.
It will give two sets of numbers, the first set are active codes and the second set are stored memory codes.
How are you getting the codes, with an obd1 reader, a meter or flashing light?

I am getting the codes by bridging the left top and left bottom pins (pins A and B) on diagnostics connector and then using a 12v LED with the negative connected to pin C on the diagnostics connector and the postive connected to the battery.

I then ran the key on engine off test and it didn't make much sense with the codes (as i was looking for 2 digit codes). I then ran the key on engine running test where u turn the steering left half and turn and then right half a turn then when the seperator code comes up put the throttle down to half for a second and then it gives you the codes.

It probably would be heaps easier with a proper reader. I only have a digital multimeter which is no good. The led worked well but obviously i was reading it wrong.

I will have to have a crack at it looking for the 3 digit codes or maybe source a reader from somewhere....... How expensive are the readers????? would most mechanic places have them because my nephew works in one, i might be able to borrow one from his work.

Hey nalane, I re ran the tests this weekend using an led and your info definently helped. With the KOEO I just got the codes 791,792,783,777,778. Which are just to do with my car not being an EL and not having the thermo fans hooked up or the serial connector output....

I ran the KOER test and just got codes 411 and code 521.

Now code 521 I dont really care about because I have the steering box in my XG and dont have the power steering pressure switch, so I'm never going to get rid of that code.

The 411 Code is definently where my problem lies. After I ran the KOER test the idle dropped down to about 500-600 rpm and must have stopped the Idle speed controller from working.

I have tested by coolant temp sensor, O2 sensor, Throttle position sensor and Air Temp sensor thing all with a multimeter going off my EB-ED Workshop manual. I tested these sensors from the ecu connector and all are within spec and operating normally from what i can tell.

I tried resetting my base idle using the proper technique of warming up car. Turning key off, disconnecting ISC, turning on car setting base idle, then turning off key, reconnecting isc and all should be okay. One thing i did notice was that it was fairly unpredictable when setting the idle. I had to turn the idle screw and rev it a bit to get it to settle. Otherwise i could turn the idle screw almost all the way in with very little difference to the actual idle.

I definently know that my inlet manifold is not leaking as i changed the gasket as i thought this was the problem ages ago when i did my BBM conversion. Also during the conversion I made sure all my vaacum lines where connected and working.

One thing I did notice was that there was 3 or 4 seconds of rev hang with the idle speed controller disconnected. This was only about 200rpm over the base idle. Im not sure if this is normal......

My ISC is brand new. It is an EB-ED one fitted on my EL BBM. From what i have searched on this shouldnt be a problem. I have tried 3 other ISC's and they do the same. So I am out of idea's!!!!!!!

My ecu is definently an EL Auto because i checked the catch code when I bought it to make sure.

All i want to know is how can I fix the problem that is giving me code 411

So if you have any idea's, please let me know as i am out of them.........

I think it may be your problem but how you fix it I don't know. Obviously not a new ISC coz you have tried others. Maybe block off ISC and increase base idle.

Yeah I thought about doing that but I would sort of feel like i had failed as i'm trying to fix the car up and disconnecting the isc is like a work around because im missing something.... I suppose it would be the last resort.

Could possibly the timing be too far advanced or the idle being set too high cause error 411????

I noticed if i set the idle too high like 900rpm then plug in the isc. The car would idle at 900rpm. I thought this was wierd because if you connect the isc the rpm should increase?
I then disconnected the isc and the idle was back down at 650-700rpm. This all happened without me touching the idle speed screw.

Is this just the ecu adjusting the timing automatically and possibly reducing idle???

The car pings on fuel running 95 octane. I have to run 98 octane to stop pinging. The car is on gas though so this might be why.