thanks for the help...
i just went out and took a look and there is a hose that is 1mm to the left of that screw and it runs into the inner guard already any other ideas?

PCV valve hose has fallen off?? Should see the PCV valve (sits behind the oil cap on the rocker cover.) follow the rubber hose from that it should connect back to the tee piece you have blocked off.

did you end up sorting out this problem?. i've having similar trouble with an AU, and am at witts end with it!
i know i'm getting a little blow by, but not enough that its using a noticeable amount of oil between services, and the MAP sensor when removed was a little oily (how normal is this?)
i cleaned it and it seemed to help for a little then went back to crap (bogs down then surges after 3000rpm) best way to describe it is like as if i wasnt at full throttle and then after 3k it planted the foot, or like VTEC, and it just opens up after 3k... very wierd. its only like this after its warmed up though, arent engines supposed to run better when warmed up?

anyway, i've swapped both oxy and MAP sensors for other ones i had lying around, but how likely is it that they both stuffed? orig sensors had done around 300k km's, and the others i had are unknown.
any help would be gladly appreciated!
thanks

I'd start with checking timing if its dead everywhere.

If its bogging down then taking off around the 3000rpm mark, then the one way valve that is on the BBM switch line is most likely rooted.

how to check timing on an AU?
and i'm guessing the BBM is working as when i take the VAC line off it the BBM actuator turns anticlockwise when taken off when idling, then put back on its turns to the right. how do i test the high rpm change as when i tried in neutral didnt really see it move.
cheers, hopefully i get this sorted!

I was referring the timing thing to the OP and those with EL's and such. You can still check timing with a timing light. I'd assume you can set the ECU test mode the same as an EL and the base timing can be checked the same way, but not altered.

You can't see if the one way valve is rooted by looking at the BBM actuator at idle. There is enough vaccum to close it at idle. It's only when you put the engine under load that it will open as the vaccum falls. Generally engine will feel OK under light acceleration, but if you boot it, it will go no where, as the actuator opens. So unless you have your head under the bonnet when your driving you'll never know.

Only way to check is pull the one valve out and blow in either end. One way it should block, the other should allow air through. If it allows air through both ways, its rooted.