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toynwitu |
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ive heard alot of happy people doin conversions and was wondering wat is needed to do the swap and wat i should look at paying for it at a wreckers???? can parts be taken from differant models if wreakers dont have my specific model (ef falcon) im an apprentas mechanic so i have access to a werkshop and all the tools but im not guna start pulling stuff out and find i need sumthing else because the is my everyday car and carnt afford to have it off the road....
thanks heaps if u can help with any part....
_________________ stage2cam,lukeyheaders,highflowcat2 1/2, 2 1/2 exhaust 3 hotdogs, 17x235/45 17x255/40's |
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justfordima |
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Definately a worthwhile mod! you'll love it, and doing it.
firstly check this out, and have it handy.. http://www.ford-tech.com/articles.php?articleId=47 You'll need the T5, with the bellhousing, the T5's were the same basically.. differences were the ratio was shorter I think on the EA's then on the EBII's+, and the EBII's onwards had reverse synchro. So any T5, with bellhousing. The pedal box will need to be an EF/EL one, We made an EA one fit an EL, but I don't wanna do that ever again, lol.. just get an EF/EL manual pedal box... shouldn't cost too much. You'll need the clutch assembly,clutch assembly bolts, clutch cable, flywheel. You'll need Dextron III for the fluid, or Penzoil whichever tickles your fancy. You'll need a gear knob, with the surround for the stick (get the GT ones, its leather.. very nice). You'll need the manual surround on the centre console... um, oh don't forget the wiring harness. The clutch assembly is where you gotta watch out. Buy a new clutch if you can, and here's the catch. In the EA T5 the flywheel has mounting point for 3 bolts, which hold the pressure plate and clutch plate. This means that the clutch is bolted in, at a Y sort of pattern. On the later models, EBII and onwards, or the 4litre manuals, they had a six bolt clutch. So when buying your clutch, make sure you remember which flywheel you have.. The EA flywheel will fit your car just like the EBII+ will. If you have a 6 bolt flywheel/clutch, and you're buying a new one, make sure to get the XR6 clutch, as they are stronger, but not much heavier (from what I hear, I have 3 bolt clutch). The wiring harness if very important, as are all the bolts needed, bolts that hold the shifter, clutch, and all the little things. You'll enjoy it, especially after its done. Cheers
_________________ ;++JustForDimSim++;
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Greenmachine |
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Mal Wood Automotive sell a clutch pedal pin which will bolt straight into the empty hole on the Auto pedal support bracket - then you can either swap over the auto brake pedal for a manual one or cut down the auto pedal and put a manual pedal pad on it.
That Mal Wood clutch pedal pin costs about $85 then there's postage/freight on top. By using that pin you then miss out on having the full raised position pedal stop that's welded on a manual pedal support bracket - but the pedal is never meant to touch that stop anyway if it's adjusted right - I certainly don't suffer for not having it. The manual pedal support bracket also has a welded bracket that sits in front of the clutch pedal to hold pedal switch/es - on EA-ED those will be a clutch pedal electric switch (stuffed if I know what it does - mine goes fine without it) and a combo vac/electric switch for cruise control cutout - and on EF onward I think it's just the one electric switch for cruise cut out. From what I can make out, on the EA that switch bracket is a separate unit that can be screwed/bolted/pop-riveted onto the Auto pedal support bracket - that's what I'll do to be able to fit the combo switch for cruise cutout.
_________________ Sold the Greenmachine - now driving 2015 Jeep Cherokee Trailhawk. Last edited by Greenmachine on Thu May 05, 2005 6:09 pm, edited 1 time in total. |
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justfordima |
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the bracket you speak of, is pop rivetted on... we had to drill it out, to get an EA pedal box into an EL.
Cheers
_________________ ;++JustForDimSim++;
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