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| XXXG |
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FYI dahayes, as this is your thread and question. Found this on the net. Read the last paragraph. Same applies to standard headlights.
http://www.twinlight.com.au/images/TWIN ... CTIONS.pdf |
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| dahayes |
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Thanks 870-csa of got a 40amp breaker just havent had a chance to swap it over just yet. will post up results tomorrow if i get it in
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| dahayes |
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ok so ive replaced the h/beam relay and still have issue.have also checked again for any damaged wires but nothing found. its strange though... the high beams work for a few minutes and only start flickering after that.
Any ideaS? |
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| SV-Valiant |
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As my original post pull the relay out and join the two wires together and you will never have that problem again
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| kevman |
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It is a circuit breaker not a relay.The circuit breaker is like a heavy duty fuse except it resets itself when it cools down.When they get old or have too high a current flowing through them,they go open circuit.If you bypass the circuit breaker and you get a short circuit in your headlight wiring then it is smoke and flame time.Or at the least some very melted wiring.So spend $9.00 and save yourself some future trouble.Reminds me of the chap who put a nail in his fuse box because he ran out of fuses!1 melted fuse holder and scorched wiring from the fuse box to the rear tail lights.
 His comment was "I didn't think that would happen".Cheers Kevman.
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| xcabbi |
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Chuck a set of genuine ford globes in there and see if it still happens. Mine happens only with aftermarket globes with the same wattage as factory.
As said before it is either your circuit breaker or your highbeam switch. You do realise that when you pull the switch both high and low beams are on but when you push the switch high beam should be on and low beam should be off. You should see the ground ahead slightly less lit up. If there is no difference between the two then your switch is shagged, thus ovearheating the circuit breaker. If there is a difference and your lights still trip out then your circuit breaker is shagged. |
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| dahayes |
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ah ok thats given me a pretty good idea of what to look for. dont really like the sound of burning out wires so i wont remove it completely but ill replace circuit breaker and see how we go.
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| briney |
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have you checked the large B+ wire from the alternator to the battery ? a bad connection here will bugger the show.
_________________ vote for pedro ? f**k pedro, f**k him up his stupid a***hole. |
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| Teknoslasher |
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Age: 38 Posts: 138 Joined: 13th Sep 2010 Ride: '96 EL Ford Fairmonth Ghia. Location: Toowoomba |
Hoping you solved the problem; I'm quite sure you'll find that its due to the connectivity between the battery and the terminals. Replace the terminals, solve the problem.
_________________
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| dahayes |
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yer it turned out to be circuit breaker, need upgrading after brighter globes were installed
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| XXXG |
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| dazza027 |
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Quick footnote, I had the same problem with my AU a few years back. It turned out to be one of the wires in the headlight loom had rubbed through and was shorting to ground between the battery tray and the headlight somewhere. It was getting so hot that it actually melted the fuse block, but never blew the fuse. It would just drop all the lights until I dropped to low beam. I had a set of those arctic white bulbs in and never had a problem with the wiring except for where they were rubbed through.
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