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shyun |
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Well i had a look again. While the car is off changing the re-circulation opens and closes the flap. When the car's on the switch does nothing, and its open. Not sure whats going on here...
_________________ ED XR6, LeMans Red, 5-Speed Last edited by shyun on Thu May 13, 2010 9:36 pm, edited 1 time in total. |
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TimmyA |
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it is likely to work when on and not off due to having no vacuum when the engine is not running...
_________________ 93 Red ED 5spd Manual Build Thread |
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shyun |
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timmytimtim wrote: it is likely to work when on and not off due to having no vacuum when the engine is not running... not with my car
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TimmyA |
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that is very weird as nothing changes between being on and off...
The only other thing that might be remotely connected, I remember when I had my dash out recently on the back of module in the dash is a vac solenoid (operated electrically), i've got no idea what it controlled or why it was there... I didn't really investigate, I just noticed it... unless this item is related to this problem, otherwise I don't know where else the system is connected electrically... I'd nearly try replacing the controls thingo in the dash first... sound more like that being weird... Cheers, Tim
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XRfairmont67 |
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u possibly have a vacuum leak in the engine bay, when the engine is running it may open up the leak from shaking etc, when u turn it off the engine wont move and the split hose seals up a bit.
worth a look |
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TimmyA |
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you have seen this happen before xrfairmont? just curious as it sounds to be a valid reason but have seen it myself before...
I though that if you had manifold vacuum that the suck would seal most small splits and the like... Cheers, Tim
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XRfairmont67 |
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yeah, depending on how much the engine moves when idling
my ef had kinda the same problem, the hard plastic vacuum line for the heater controls coming thru the firewall had rubbed thru on the washer bottle, when the engine was stopped the bottle sealed the plastic hose enough to keep vacuum for a while, once u started it the engine shook enough so it just moved the plastic hose off the bottle enough to leak |
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shyun |
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So what hoses would affect the recirculation control? I know there's the two that go through the firewall but they should be fairly secure.
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TimmyA |
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yeah the black one is your main source of vacuum... It plugs onto the back of the manifold and when the motor is running it gives you manifold vacuum... The green one operates the heater tap which is under the manifold and suts the water flow off the heater tap when you go all the water cold...
If you face/feet/windscreen selectors all work fine then its not the black hose (as these is operated by vacuum too) and you won't be able to tell with the green on as no vacuum gives hot water flow, vacuum shuts it off... well the thing you could try is this... the default position for the re-circ vent is fresh air... the spring in the vacuum plunger defaults to fresh air... If you pop the glove box out (just a matter of opening it halfway and giving it hit from underneath in the upward direction)... Be hind here you will see a big clear rubbery plug thing with all the vac lines it... With you hand up the recirc vent, unplug the plug (can be a b**ch to do, might need a second set of hands for it) one unplugged all vacuum in the system will disappear, and the spring in the plunger should change the flap over to fresh air... And you will feel the flap operate through 90 degree and try and close on your arm/hand (it wont hurt, its only a slow transition and only a very mild spring makes it move), but you'll have to have your arm up there high enough to feel that round grill... This will at least tell you its working with vacuum and spring return and whether or not its "stuck" upward for some reason... For the sake of the exercise... The dark green one runs into the engine bay, I'm fairly sure in this case the light green one pulls the re-circ vent over... Cheers, Tim
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shyun |
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Well thanks for the help but it turned out there was nothing mechanically wrong. By chance i was reading the EL ECU isntall guide on the TI performance website and saw it was different and noticed it actually mentioned to cut the wire going to pin 32 (orange). On an EL it is the LPG switch but on an ED its air-recirculation. So if anyones having the problem just cut the pin 32 wire off . And thanks to jason for putting it in the document.
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