Hi Folks

My AU handles like a boat and i think its due for new shocks at least (<140,000km)
i was thinking, why not replace the whole suspension assembly from a BA so i can have IRS and while i'm at it find a BA diff with LSD.

I replaced my disks with new slotted ones because the ones that came with the car were warped. Once again before 2 years, my disks are warped, but its no surprise tho, considering that ford made the AU heavier than the EB with smaller disks!

I could go aftermarket with the break system, but the cost would go through the roof and i don't need that sort of performance.

so my question is, is it worth doing what i propose? in terms of:
Cost?
Benefit?
Difficulty?
Time requirements?

Has anyone out there done this?

Many Thanks!!
Brad

the AU IRS is better.

I got a series 1 AU, good luck trying to get the brakes to not warp, in the whole 7 years i had the car i never once achieved this even with DBA Gold 5000 Series Slotted an cross drilled rotors front and back.

I would change the shocks man, and lower it and it will be alot better, also add a stiffer sway bar. You have to expect it will handle like a boat if its not lowered yet. That's physics my friend. Lowering is not just for looks, it lowers the centre of gravity of your car.

Can I install the sway bar myself?
Where's the best place to buy the sway bar, shocks and springs?
How much should I expect to pay?
Thanks

Most of the time, when my discs are warped its come down to the pads - get stupid pads and they work harder to brake the car. EBC Greenstuffs are great, and if I remember correctly even claim that they can correct small amounts of run-out over time. Ive not warped a disk with EBC Pads, but warped many with Bendix or QFM

Nigel

yeah i bought bendix- i'm probably about due to service my breaks

EBC Greenstuffs has the same performance?

EBC Greens are Exceptional Pads. If you want even better you can move up to Redstuffs

Shop around though - the price varies *heaps*

Nigel

AU1 brakes are pathetic full stop and if you are spending money on the engine at all you should be upgrading. No matter what discs/pad combo you run they are always going to warp if you drive your car even half a*** due to combination of thin rotors and sfa pad contact area (main reasons).

It isn't that expensive to do an upgrade to a later model, I got quoted $330 for all parts required to run AU2+ brakes, then you can get bf xr8 front brakes for $650/750 from FTG. Close to the same cost as an exhaust and will make your car faster around a track guaranteed. Not sure what the laws are in WA but here you just need it signed off that everything is mechanically okay and a brake efficiency test done afterwards (any brake fitment that isn't an option on your model car).

As for BA/AU IRS either way will require welding. I think AU is fairly straight forward, not sure about BA (have seen it put in other cars: I think BA would be easier to put in where it isn't meant to belong, whereas AU will be easier to put in an AU/E series). I haven't driven an AU with live axle but love the way my AU (IRS) drives, and it has towing springs in the a*** end! In reality though you will need to get this signed off on by an 'approved person' or equivalent depending upon what state you are in.