In getting the falc worked on recently ive found a few good common things to look for in the brake system.

Brake booster failure (crack in housing) - EF/EL - caused by heat, often from aftermarket extractors. In my experience the failures relate to severally retarded ignition & ethanol in the fuel (one tank of e10 and another time bottle of injector clean) Fix Find revolution race gear new cover new booster with some heat tape.

Master cylinder drags (internals stick on slightly) - general wear & tear. The drag makes the pads red hot & outer most layers of the rotor hot. air circulating from within the rotor tries to bow it. once at a complete stop the pads are scortching hot in one place therefore warping the rotor. Fix Local brake & clutch is your best bet for a cylinder over haul. some new fulid & machine will get it back to new.

Calipers drag (slides wont unstick) - wear - the boots on the caliper pins/slides can eventually wear through. once this happens its a matter of time till the grease goes s**t & sticks. same symtoms as above. Fix take calipers off & re grease pins & slides with the correct!!! (I cant stress that enough) brake pin & slide grease. replace slide boots. wipe down rotors with brake clean after reassemble.

I learnt that the biggest problem is pad choice. People go and get new rotors and pads like Bendix General CT. Apparently these pads are 'worse' than the factroy pads (i think the temp rating). I was told use either genuine ford pads or something like bendix ultimate, otherwise they'll always be overheating and warp again.

anyway, it took about 5000kms to warp the rotors with bendix general ct. i had them machined and put on ford pads (cheaper than ultimates) and 20,000kms later it was still fine.

i found that the bendix ultimate are a real good pad but will wear the rotors pretty quick..
generally every pad change ive needed to get the rotors machined and every 2nd pad change the rotors need replacing.
the ct's are just a std replacement pad, if you drive the pads to the point of heat failure of course the rotors will warp, if they are overheating and warping under every day driving , there either something wrong with your driving style or you already have issues with your braking system...
you cant expect a std pad to perform like a h/d performance pad...

It's not the temp rating thats the problem with these pads, but a known problem from Bendix that parts of the pad can break away and get stuck to the rotor causing a thickness variation.

Problem is 10 fold on slotted rotors where the slots rip the material from the pad and gets stuck to the rotor. To the point where Bendix and DBA dont recommend using this combo of parts.

So its not the actual rotor warping thats causing the problems, but a thickness variation from pad material buildup that causes it. Maching is the old way to fix however.

I think its only a .05mm thickness variation thats enough to cause a feeling of shudder in Falcon brakes.