G'day people,

I fixed the rust holes on the innerside of the bootlid by removing cancer to new metal and Mig welded new metal with bog afterwards.

However, I now need to do the full outside lid it will be in 2k Congo Green.

Some of the basics I need to know if someone can tell me :-

1. How much of the clear coat has to come off? Does it need only to go to paint layer so to speak as I dont want to go to bare metal?

2. What grade of sand paper do I need to remove that plastic clear top coat?

I've used 80 and 120.

3. Do I need also a a finer grade sand paper wet/dry to finish off in preparation, if so, what grade?

4. What grade of sandpaper wet/dry should I use to sand paint in between coats?

5, Almost forgot, any special primer or any old primer will suffice?

Thanks, Peter

depends how good of a job u want to do

if you want to go do this properly

go back to metal run a laser over the side and all around it (so it lights up a line on it) look for low/ high spots fix them with some bog and some sand paper (dry) and a long piece of wood (this prevents u from making further lower and highs)

then u must seal this super etch will do this ok

run a laser over it again check it again

spray a light coat of primer filler(fill any low and highs u might still have)

sand smooth with 600

apply your colour under coat

apply your paint

apply your clear

(this is optional)

wait a week

sand clear with 600 (just lightly just to open the pours of the paint)

another coat of clear

(optional part over)

wait a week

sand bak with 1200

buff smooth

polish

wax


walla

Thanks for your advice and descriptive steps.

Only drawback. I dont have a laser and no proper facilities to mount one.

Lasers are not cheap these days.

Cheers

i personally use a laser for best accuracy

but a block or wood will show same thing

u can also run your hand across it

look at it with a white light from all angles

What do you suggest to polish and wax with as I have heard certain products cause problems specially with clear coat.

I did not think one could wax or polish clear.

Thanks

all cars are clear coated otherwise it wouldnt be shiny would be all dull and bland (looks like the car came out of a desert) the clear also acts as a protection layer to protect the colour from the outside world

meguiars make some great stuff for safe jobs if your worried i use mothers personally for proper wax but if i wanted a wash on wax i would defently go meguiars

for polish dad uses nufinish once a year car polish (more like twice a yr)
and its never marked anything great stuff

but ive learned much from mates(retired car detailers) about how to care for paint and ull be amazed what hurts it

the old fashioned chamois dries out the oil in the paint create oxidation (thats bad)
use a microfiber chamois does not do that also better for no paint scratches

dont wash the car with a sponge as sponges just push dirt along and off the car (scratchs paint)
use for eg: Mothers Genuine Lambswool Wash Mitt

dont wash ur car with dish washing liquid this is a more potent cleaner and will remove oil and wax from the car making it crack and dry out and fade (more suit to alloy rims that have no paint)

if you wash ur car with a wash on wax always clay bar the windshield afterwards (will remove the thin wax from the windshield) otherwise ur wipers will screech

if you find rain sticks to your windshield try applying some rain X

polishing a car should only be done when the paint is new as it lifts paint and removes it (hides scratches this way same as buffing) this is bad for the paint scratch removal stuff does work well but once a yr you prob should use the mothers 3 step system on it (only if you really love the car otherwise 3yrs will do average cars) and to always wax the car in some way or another every week if possible do this and ull never have to repaint your car

taking care of rubbers is important dont want them to crack and what not nulon ezi glide them wait 2 weeks then mothers back in black them this should be done as soon as they start loosing colour

patch up jobs are easy with some 600 and 1200 sand paper u can just sand down with 600 (wet of course) the mark till its a little bit smoother and go around the mark a little to help blend the mark then dry it with sun light (waiting 30min to a hr depends on sun always do this in 24.5 degrees plus in the sun if its to plastic/metal u will have to apply some ground coats) slowly over time apply a few layers of paint waiting for each layer to dry just enough not to close its pours but to not run and build it up over the rest of the paint(so its higher then the rest of the paint) now sand smooth with 1200 after a day of drying always check progress dont go to far nice and slow u will then want to patch ur sanding with some scratch X 2.0 it and then wax the car (if youve scratch it up badly u may want to cut polish it before waxing it but scratch X 2.0 will remove all marks if done correctly) the wax will blend and shine the patch up with the rest of the paint making it un-noticeable

Fordsrule174,

Thanks for your detailed explanations of waxes and polishes.

I'll be using the products you mentioned

Much appreciated.
Cheers, Peter