Hey guys

I have recently noticed that on my EF Fairmont's dash in the middle column between the revs and speedo that there is a light that has constantly switched itself on. The light is an exclamation mark with a bracket around it

Any help to remove this would be greatly appreciated

Thanks

Daniel

Tis the brake fail indicator.

The switch under the master cylinder may be rooted, or there may actually be a problem with your brakes.

Best to get it checked out.

Ahh s**t. Doesnt sound good. The brakes do vibrate when i brake and I did have next to low/no brake fluid but filled that up yesterday ( all you really need to do is fill up the two sections in rubber container ) which did reduce the vibrations but i still need to get new disks though. Would this bring up the light?

Rooted discs wont cause the light to come on.

The fact you had low brake fluid is concerning. Means there is a leak somewhere. Brake fluid its not one of those fluids that disappears like oil or water and needs an occasional top up.

The light coming on is telling you there is possible low pressure in one of the circuits as the internal pressure differential valve is not sitting where it should be. This could have been caused by the low fluid, but topping it up and pressing the brake should reset it.

You might be lucky it might just be a matter of the switch not sitting properly, which is just unscrew the thing and put it back in and hope the light goes. If not, something else is rooted.

Ok, i appreciate the help. Where am i able to find the switch so i can unscrew it to see if it is just the switch that hopefully is the problem.

If its not, does it mean i could be up for some $$

Switch is under the master cylinder. Its a creamy coloured plastic thing that screws into the underside. Will have part of the loom plugged into it.

I'm pretty sure it doesn't hold fluid, so you should be able to unscrew and screw back in without problem.

I'd still be looking for a leak somewhere in the system though. Unless all your pads are basically down to metal, its the only explanation for having almost no fluid.

Could be air in the system, you said your fluid level was low. If it got too low air could have entered the lines. The brake warning switch will come on when air is detected.
My advice, before you go unscrewing things, is go to your local autobarn (or whoever) and get your self a 1 man brake bleeding kit (under $20) and a couple of bottles of brake fluid. Then at least if, when you unscrew the switch to check it, you get any more air into the system you can bleed it out. Also, get under the car and check your lines for leaks, particularly around any joins. And inspect the back of the wheels for any signs of brake fluid, could be a leaking wheel cylinder or bleed valve. These are things you can fix yourself if you are confident enough. But if you have any doubts take the car to a brake specialist.

Alright thanks guys

I'm confused as to where to find the switch though :S does anyone have an image of it?

Ok guys got the light to go

Filled up the brake fluid up and reconnected the switch and its gone.

But the blokes at the shop said there are more issues there with brakes and steering. Something to do with the way the pads are wearing thin on one part of the pads, i was confused and they said the arm which clamps the pads to the disk aren't working properly.

Also the intermediate shaft needs replacing, they guys said that i wont be able to do that myself as there is something to do with lining it all up which may effect the air bag. Is this true?

cheers daniel

HA HA HA they have seen you coming in terms of the intermediate shaft

Very easy to do

as to the arm, i think you mean your brake pistons. Again they MAY be having a lend of you. Take to another place and see what they say

I agree, ALWAYS and I mean ALWAYS get more than 1 opinion and quote when ever you have the choice. And in Melbourne you should be pretty well spoiled for choice, I'd get at least 3 different quotes. But only tell them what the car is doing, don't tell them what other places have said, and see if the diagnosis changes. If it does they are probably trying to screw you.

Intermediate shaft is very easy to do, providing you know the secrets of making sure not to move anything while your doing it... Which is the only secret to it really, as it can only go on one way.

You can f**k the clock spring in the column if you move the steering wheel the wrong way during installation.

Your problem is they are NLA, so you cant get a new one. Which is OK, cos they are near $300. Just means you will also have a small dead spot off centre for the rest of the time you have the car.

As for the brakes, that is very common... But not many people notice it.

The caliper piston pushes the pad onto the disc. To effect that, the caliper is mounted on greased slides that are hard mounted to the spindle, so it can slide back and forth. As they age, the seals die and the slides start to sieze. When only one siezes, it pushes the pad on an angle, not front on and even. So only part of the pad does the work, and the wear is uneven as you have been told. Also means the area gets hotter and warps the disc more because you are using the brakes harder then required.

Easy fix is to remove the caliper and the slides, unseize them and regrease them. But when you do that, you have to replace the pads at the same time.

So sounds like they aren't having a lend of you. You're just copping common problems these cars get they age.