Check all your block grounds and battery terminals and even the big fuses in the fuse box for corrosion.
You can do an engine running wiggle test on your harness too.

Alright it appears there has been progress!

I checked all the block grounds and battery terminals for corrosion. There was abit of corrosion on the negative terminal which I got rid of but it didn't seem to make a difference (apart from the oil pressure guage doesn't seem to be so erratic).

I went and had it scanned for codes on Friday and it came up with two. First was "Coil pack voltage too high" which i'm not too concerned about due to the aftermarket coil packs, however the other was Cam Sync sensor. About 3 months ago/4000km my syncronizer was starting to squeel so I replaced it with a Chinese Built "Dorman" once imported from RockAuto in the states. This Syncronizor also came with a new sensor so naturally I fitted this aswell which looks like this may have been the problem. I have put back on the standard Ford sensor (with the Dorman Syncronizer) and so far the car has been running like a dream. The problem was always intermittant so time will tell but so far so good.

I hope in future this saves someone the headache I have been through!

I spoke too soon!!

Problem returned yesterday with the exact same identical intermittant issues I was having previously.

I am still focusing on the Cam Sync Sensor as this was the only real error code that came up originally (apart from coil pack voltage too high which i presume is just because they are aftermarket). I also found the following on the net which basically explains my issues down to a tee (other than the cold starting issue mentioned) - "symptoms related to the position sensor can include excessively long cranking time when starting cold, rough running on an intermittent basis, poor idle, stumbling or hesitation, a drop in mileage and stalling upon acceleration".

I disconnected the Sensor this morning (which apparently makes it revert from sequential to multipoint injection). It seems to run pretty well actually and went well to work. Obviously I will leave it for a few days as it's an intermittant issue.

On a side note, what are peoples experiences with MAF sensor faults? Do they nearly always throw a fault code when playing up? I am just trying to rule this one out completely.

No they don't always throw a code. But MAF sensor faults aren't normally intermittant either, unless it's just a connection thing. Seen many cases on the E-series where the seal has been tipped over inside the connector resulting in loss/intermittant connection....doesn't usually happen with A-series.
Check the play in the CID sensor shaft. Did you use your original Ford gear? You should have. If so did you set the height correctly?

I actually had a mechanic fit the CID shaft/sensor for me. But he said he knew what he was doing in relation to this (i.e. cyl no. 1 being at TDC on comp stroke) and using the positioning tool. Said it was just like fitting a dizzy? I took it as he knew what he was doing but then again, he may have gotten it wrong?? Wouldn't be the first time I've had mechanics make mistakes at my expense.

The new Syncronizer Shaft I fitted was not a motorcraft item, it is a chinese manufactured "Dorman" to suit 96-98 U.S. Explorer V8's which eliminated the squeel I was having. I also fitted the new Dorman Sync Sensor originally, but replaced this with the original ford item when it had spit out the error code last weekend (but alas has not fixed the problem).

I didn't realise you can set the "Height" of the shaft? I thought it just slips in to the oil pump drive gear and thats it?

Ok if it's chinese and it came with a dizzy gear on it...I wouldn't trust that as far as I could throw it.
When you change a drive gear the height they sit on the shaft is critical for the gear and the camshaft gear survival. So check you haven't worn the teeth on either gear. You might want to check that it hasn't sheared the scroll pin and twisted on the shaft too...seen this before on a dizzy equipped car.
Have you cleared KAM and started again with the codes?

Problem reared it's head again today even after I disconnected the CMP. I switched her off at the lights and fired her back up and it was good for another 5 minutes until it returned again.

This is the CMP I purchased and is to suit the explorer motors. Many blokes on fordforums purchase this same item to replace the standard motorcraft item when the bush flogs out.
http://info.rockauto.com/getimage/getim ... 03-007.jpg

I will have a look at what you have mentioned on the weekend and also ensure it has been aligned 100% correctly @ cyl 1 TDC. As another side note, I have suspected for a few weeks that the balancer has maybe slipped as I am getting a few Vibrations at about 800rpm, 1300rpm & 2100rpm. If it has slipped(which I will also check when I get it at TDC), would this also put the CKP out? I am now thinking it's the CKP as this has a large influence on timing and would cause it to miss, however whether it would be an "intermittant" problem, i don't know??

I haven't checked codes again - I didn't get charged the first time around but I'm guessing from now on I will. Also, since I have been running the car with sensors disconnected, it will probably throw alot which won't be indicitive of exactly what's going on. WIll have to reset the ECU before i have it scanned again.

Once again mate, I apprecaite your input/advice on helping me chase this problem!!

Ok if it's doing it with the CID disconnected it's not the CID.
The Crank encoder wheel is pressed on the hub of the balancer so it won't affect timing if the balancer has slipped. It's unlikely the vibration caused by a slipped balancer will effect timing either...unless of course the crank bearings are that flogged that crank is moving up and down big time. Check you haven't got any bits of iron ore or metal filings stuck on the pickup and check you haven't had any encoder teeth damaged. Check the bolts are tight on the pickup itself.

What do you remember cleaning the pickup with? Electrical contact cleaner?

double post.

Last edited by XR9UTE on Tue Dec 07, 2010 5:05 pm, edited 1 time in total.

I'd use compressed air because there's a magnet in there so, just wiping it may not be enough to break any metallic debri away. Or unbolt it so you can physically wipe the crap off...contact cleaner is good yes.

Well the problem appears to have been the BRAND NEW oxygen sensors. Normally would be one of the first things I would check but as they were only 5000km old I overlooked it. I put some new ford oem ones in there and the problem hasn't reappeared in over a week.

Let this be a lesson to everyone, don't bother with the cheap $42 Oxygen Sensors on ebay as they are rubbish.