Ok, So I am going down the W2A path with my setup. I just have a few quick questions.

MY exchanger will be mounted in front of the passenger wheel near the ABS unit, the W2A will be going in, in place of the air box, DA22LE has agreed to weave his magic with the pipe work from turbo to TB. I intend on using the hole in the side of the inner panel to run my water piping the pump will be installed under the W2A cooler for ease of access, I will not be turning the TB 180º, I will just plumb up to it in its factory position, no need to stuff round with accelerator cables this way. The exhaust side will plumb back in before the cat on a 4" dump into a 3" exhaust after the cat.

I need to get new oil lines from snort, some heat proof wrap for various bits. I am in 2 minds for relocating the battery to the boot, but I do want to box a pod. and I really cannot see anywhere the reposition the battery too otherwise.

So my question is,

Does this setup sound realistic? I want to avoid running a FMIC as it will just make engineering so much easier if nothing it cut. Once engineered, I can look at that path later when I get the urge for more power.

Options for collecting cold air?

Is a battery reloction unavoidable if I intend on doing everything this way?

And lastly, for people who have actually turbo'd their car, in NSW, and got it all engineered, any issues you came across? Will an engineer want an emissions test just by default? of is it a little more dependant on who you talk to?

I can always go J3, to get the tables to a satisfactory level, thats if the emissions as too far out.

Engine has been built and run for the last 12 months as N/A. Time to get some boost happening.

Dave

oh and I intend on running the hot side piping, across the front of the head above the serp belt, figured a bit of airflow on the hot side to drop the temp a touch will help. every little bit does.

i think if you want to box or cover the pod like i have moving the battery is a must..

yeah I was thinking that, can you tell me what I would to put in a "kit" to relocate the battery?

Is running the positive through the chassis rail the best way to route the cabling?

can you link me a spot in your build that you have covered this, if you have covered it?

you can actually buy the kit's as a whole, not sure if the positive would be long enough?

i havnt got any real detailed info in my thread..
i got my battery box and earth cable from Bias Boating Warehouse at warwickfarm. i think it was about $60 for both.
the power cable i got from an auto elect at guildford, i got 6mtrs of double insulated cable (i cant remember the gauge of the wire) but its pretty thick, for about $120.
the battery box is bolted to the drivers side boot floor right near the 1/4 panel..

my original earth cable that ran from the block to the battery is now bolted to the front rail,
and from the battery in the boot the earth now bolts to the rear bumper bolt..
the battery cable at the moment runs from a distribution tab thats screwed to the plate that supports the header tank where the battery tray used to be,

then runs through the front half of the chassis rail but then there is a section in the centre of the car that just hugs the floor pan (which im not to happy with as its a little exposed to scraping if the car ever bottoms out on anything)..
it then runs alongside the rear chassis rail the through the floor into the boot..
to be honest im wanting to re route it through the cabbin, im planning to run mine into the front inner guard through the lower panel on the a pillar where some on the wires go through, then it will come out where the kick panel is and run it under the capet into the boot...

Yep through passenger side rail to starter motor.. The original cable is big enough to handle the accessories.. There is an opening in rail around starter motor..
I used welding cable, earth [-] is bolted to bolt at rear of gearbox then to body..
With 25mm Sq on battery to tow bar bolt if you have one??
The fuel pumps feed straight off battery via relay from original wiring to keep OEM safety standards..The right sized wire to pumps is a must if running decent boost..
On nearly ALL fuel pump flow maps it shows how quick the pump falls off when pushing against boost and voltage drop.. Especially when the thermo fans switch in...It's at a point when the engine needs all the fuel it requires.. This is also part of a GOOD tune!!!
Battery in boot usually requires a higher amperage alternator.. The 110+ amp from AU's work fine..

in regards to the battery re location, here is a couple of pics for you dave..
i just re routed my battery cable, it now runs through the inner guard and into the lower a pillar as i mentioned before and along the sill inside the car into the boot...


and tucks in nicely behind the vacuum resoirvoir ( not fitted in this pic)