Just after starting today noticed the warning light on the voltmeter was on,checked belt, oK, then noticed needle reading 16+ volts,Hmmm, then noticed all the other gauges including speedo and tacho not working, checked fuses, instrument panel fuse was fried/ melted.
dug out melted bits put in new fuse (30, same as what was fried) all the gauges work ,except the volt meter, that started out looking good, then climbed to 16V plus, then warning light came on again.
Need to find volt meter and test alternator, never where I thought I'd left it,
is this a "normal" EF/EL fault?
Sign of dead alternator?

I cant say if it is comon for ef/l's, but it is not uncomon for the reg or alternator to fail and overcharge. And if the volt gauge is corect in reading 16 volts plus i would be checking that out asap before is does some serious damage!

Yeah, obviously a problem, when the power is turned on ( engine not running)the gauge does the slow climb to 16V and then light comes on,
whereas, when working normally, the light would come on as soon as ignition switch was turned on- prior to start.

If your voltmeter is 16V before you even start the car, then it is most likely an instrument cluster issue. Even the most overcharged battery will never get to 16V. The alternator isn't functioning when the engine is off so that can't be the culprit. I would pull the instrument fuse out and check your battery voltage (engine bay, Batt terminals)with a digital multimeter. 12V to 13V would be normal for a healthy battery. Now start the car and do the same check again. 13.5 to 14.4V would be normal if the alternator/regulator are working normally. If that is fine, switch on the headlights and check the voltage (car running) and make sure you still have about 14V. If that is successful, head to the wreckers and get another instrument cluster.

Without test equipment(I'll find it next week when I don't need it )I fixed it by elimination,
1. replaced fried fuse,(plastic was melted, fuse not blown) still got volt meter that slowly heads off the clock with engine not running ignition on.Other gauges now reading normal.
2. removed power wires to alternator, gauge now shows true charge condition of battery, does not rise.
3. swapped in spare alternator, All dash gauges including volt meter working as normal.
Assumptions, dud alternator fried fuse which caused dash to go on/off/on/off/crazy.replaced fuse cured erratic dash- except volt meter,replaced alternator cured weird action of voltmeter,
ergo, dud alternator.
How does that sound?