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| aussiexh |
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Hey Guys, little information about re-installing the Timing Cover on the Ford Straight 6.
Having a fun old time replacing the timing belt on the XH Ute 1996 - Dizzy stripped the Aux Gear and the engine has 250k on it so decided to replace the front seal, water pump and timing chain at the same time, plus the tensioner. BUT...............got the timing cover off okay, but when I tried to put it back on it split on me!!! I have to remove the sump don't I??? |
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| TROYMAN |
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yep.. drop the sump
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| aussiexh |
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Crazy engine design this one............can't believe the amount of sh£t I have had to remove to get the timing cover and Dizzy off the engine
 !!!And now the Sump. Because of the K-Frame design I should be able to get away with leaving the Engine in place right, guess worst case scenario is lift the engine up an inch or two and that should give me the room required to get the sump off? Guess that would mean getting the bonnet off if I need to get the Engine Crane in there? I actually have a spare Timing Cover, which was the original one, but a few little tabs brake off at the bottom near the Front Engine Oil Seal (on the inside of the Timing Cover), should I dig up a new one or can I get away with using this one? It was broken before I removed it from the car - I got a new one (Which has now split) because I was a little concerned about using the original one with the broken tabs. |
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| phongus |
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aussiexh wrote: Crazy engine design this one............can't believe the amount of sh£t I have had to remove to get the timing cover and Dizzy off the engine !!!And now the Sump. Because of the K-Frame design I should be able to get away with leaving the Engine in place right, guess worst case scenario is lift the engine up an inch or two and that should give me the room required to get the sump off? Guess that would mean getting the bonnet off if I need to get the Engine Crane in there? I actually have a spare Timing Cover, which was the original one, but a few little tabs brake off at the bottom near the Front Engine Oil Seal (on the inside of the Timing Cover), should I dig up a new one or can I get away with using this one? It was broken before I removed it from the car - I got a new one (Which has now split) because I was a little concerned about using the original one with the broken tabs. Uhh if the new one broke, get the shop to replace it. I suggest you replace it with a newer/better condition one...you don't want to do this task again as you have found out. Do it right the first time .Also you should be able to get away with just dropping the sump...gives you enough clearance.
_________________ phongus = Post whore 2006 |
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| efxr6wagon |
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You can leave the bonnet on. Loosen the engine mount nuts until there are only a couple threads engaged. Put a block of wood under the sump and jack the engine up. Should give you enough clearance to lower the front of the sump.
_________________ 95 EF XR6 wagon, 17" FTRs, DBA rotors, KYB/Koni, AU bottom end, ported EF head, backcut valves, SS Inductions, Territory intake, 10.2 CR, Auckland 1258 cam, vernier gear, PH4480 headers, no cat, Tickford 2.5", 2800rpm stall, J3 chip |
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| TROYMAN |
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efxr6wagon wrote: You can leave the bonnet on. Loosen the engine mount nuts until there are only a couple threads engaged. Put a block of wood under the sump and jack the engine up. Should give you enough clearance to lower the front of the sump. not if its jacked up by the sump?? 
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| efxr6wagon |
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DOH! Don't you hate it when that happens?
 Yep, you need to wedge something solid under the motor mount brackets before you can remove the jack from the sump. Good catch.
_________________ 95 EF XR6 wagon, 17" FTRs, DBA rotors, KYB/Koni, AU bottom end, ported EF head, backcut valves, SS Inductions, Territory intake, 10.2 CR, Auckland 1258 cam, vernier gear, PH4480 headers, no cat, Tickford 2.5", 2800rpm stall, J3 chip |
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| aussiexh |
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All back together now, able to get sump off enough to gain clearance.
However now not firing and I think dizzy might not be installed properly, marked rotor button when removed at tdc and re-aligned on install but when I crank it sounds like pee-ignition, I tried reversing the firing order but the engine just endlessly cranks! Any help? |
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| aussiexh |
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Got the car running, but all is not well.
Popped the rocker cover and checked the timing marks and all good. But still engine just cranking and not running. Mate suggested playing with the firing order. Instead of just reversing the firing order, which not work anyway, I moved the order along. I moved if forward two spots from 1-5-3-6-2-4 to 3-6-2-4-1-5. As soon as I cranked it the engine fired! I then popped the rocker cover and re-checked the timing at TDC on the intake and all sweet. So I guess I have installed the dizzy two slots to far forward and as such have mucked up the firing order? Only issue now is popping off the intake manifold to fix the issue as I don't think god has invented the beast to get the dizzy off whilst it is in place? PS pump looks like it has crapper itself aswell, this car just keeps on giving !
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| TROYMAN |
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you dont need to take the manifold off to remove the dizzy....
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| aussiexh |
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Quote: you dont need to take the manifold off to remove the dizzy.... Yeah I know, I was being silly !But certainly is a b@stard of a job to get it off, so much so, I actually think it is quicker to just pop the manifold bolts of and move it a few inches back, not disconnect it entirely, just pop it off the head and gain yourself the room to be able to comfortably fit your hand onto the Dizzy cap. Of course, this depends on how old your intake manifold gasket is and if it is glued itself half to your manifold and half to your head so making it necessary to replace it if you did remove the Intake, which would be pretty annoying if you were just planning on changing your leads !But mine is brand new, so not an issue here. QUESTION: I guess I want to line up the Rotor button with the "Start" marking on the Dizzy when the Engine is at TDC on the Intake right??? |
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