Hi Guys

a couple of weeks back my alternator died on my 95 ef futura i6 auto, so i jumped my car a few times to get home from work, the last time i jumped it and started driving, it stalled, no biggy but the central lock actuators kept cycling slowly (dead battery),.

i put in a new aternator and ecu as befor this the car was having ruff iddle and thermo fan issues, then i relised the central locking, boot, fuel door and interior lights where not working, the 30 amp fuse was melted, i replaced it and the new fuse blew (i had to try it lols), so i disconted all acuators, put in another fuse and boot, fuel door and interior lights worked, fuse didnt blow.

while doing this i relised the drivers side rear acutator smelt like burnt chooks lols so i left it disconected and plug in the rear passenger side actuator and that one worked, but when i pluged in the front left actuator the locks just cycled up and down none stop.

so i tryed the drivers side front and the same thing, so i new i needed one rear right actuator, but i brought a used set from here, turns out the drives side front dont work out of the used set i brought, but the rear drivers side works.

when i conect both rears they work, but when i connect the either of the two front actuators (my orginals and one out of the used set i brought) when installed or not installed in the car the locks keep cycling up and down, ive though cause the drivers side door will not lock with the key it might have some thing to do with it, hence why i tested the actuators out of the car but they still do the same thing.

ive orded some diodes for the the rear actuators to see if it still does the same thing ? its strange to me, as all three actuators playing up at the same time with one almost melting. i first thought it just just the rear actuator causing the problem, or the drivers front door not unlocking or locking with the key but the actuators still do the same thing.

tomorow i will do more testing but i thought ill see if any one else has had simular problems, or might know of a short cut to point me in the right direction, i know there has been loads of actuator and central locking post as i read just about all of them, but none seam to be the same situation or none are realy clear to me.

like misaligned push rod, well mine still do it no installed in the car with no push rods, ive read diodes can fix the problem, well i havnt tested that out yet, but i will, the rears seam to work ok just the front signal actuators are playing up ? and im not sure if jump starting the car could hurt the bem/bcm in some way, even though the interior lights are working and fading like a futura and every thing else like boot, fuel door release and so on is working and the car is having no starting issues

ive run dianostics on it and in koeo test im getting 111 codes no fualts to display and in koer test im only getting a couple faults relating to ics low iddle fail and high iddle fail, witch ive fixed that problem, so im not sure what else there is ? and im not sure in bem/bcm fualts show up on these test ?, i dont rely want to mess around with after market central locking, it looks like my ef was still on the orginal actuators, me and my wife want to keep the stock key pads as ive just brought two new ones, so would like to keep using ford actuators if i can get it work ?

this is starting to tick me off.

ok the 3 orginal actuators i have, 2 front, one left rear that works (well moves) no matter what i do they will just keep dancing when you plug in either front actuators.

the 3 used actuators i brought from here 2 rear one front left (front drivers side not working) no matter what i do they will just keep dancing when you plug in either front actuators.

it doesnt matter if the acutators are installed in the car or not the same thing, so im thinking its not door locks assemblies ?

the rears work with the button on the dash and the key pad and will lock and unlock no worries untill you plug in any oth the 3 front door actuators i have they all will cycle, if you leave one of the front actuators pluged in the locks will just cycle over and over and then the rear left gets out of sinc, meaning it will be locked when the other rear door is unlocked, this happens with my orginal actuator and one of the used rear actuators i brought, witch makes me think a fualt or tight door locks assemblie ? but i cant find any thing wrong with it, it moves easy and feels free.

so does this mean the set of 4 actuators (only 3 working i brought from here) are stuffed ?

does this mean my 3 actuators are stuffed also ?

or does it mean other like my body control modual or bem ive read that are also called is stuffed ?

i would buy all new actuators if i thought 100% that was it, or if i felt it was 100% the body control modual i would try and find another one, or option 3 i would buy all new door lock assemblies if i thought that was it either.

im not convinced replacing the diodes in the rears will fix the problem either ?

i do find it strange after a flat battery one rear actuator burnt out and the two front actuators just cycle and the rear right is out of sinc and the used actuators i brought from here do the same dam thing......


any suggestions or advice would be great as im sure then is other ef/el that have had actuator promlems......

there are a few different model actuators, try and match the codes up.
i have heard of people putting another in their car and have the same problem as you.
although i have replaced actuators with non matching ones without problems on ed, ef and el's.

just a thought, sometimes a door lock knob which is fitted too low will make the locks cycle.
are you trying them with the trims off?

There are a couple of different models and they vary in actuator speed I think. Honestly, if you can spend the extra little time, buy an aftermarket set of four solenoid actuators from Jaycar to replace the factory ones. They sound better and are less likely to fail as they are a solenoid, not a motor.

thats why i brought a full set from here, thinking diffrent modles, diffrent usage and wear rates = diffeent speed, im thinking the set i brought from here are stuffed, i didnt mind getting charge 10 bucks more for actual postage, but they are not working correctly ? and one front actuator doesnt work at all.

if i used the rears that i brought from here after a few unlocks and locks they get out of sink, if i mix the used one i got from here and my originals on the rear then they get out of sink also.

as soon as either front left or right actuators as plugged into the wire harness inside the doors they just keep cycling over and over none stop with out touching the key pad or dash button

if i plug either front in like mentioned if the actuators installed in the car with or with trims they do the same thing if i just plug them in and let them sit on the shed floor with nothing installed to them they do the same thing they just cycle over and over again untill the front actuators are unpluged from power.

i could understand if it only happend when installed in the doors with trim on, as ive had buttons cause this and or bent rods or stiff door lock assemblies but since all 3 front actuators i have are plug in sitting on the shed floor they do the same just keep opeaning and closing over and over.

i was hopping atlest i could get the rear central locking to work, so i could atlest lock the rear doors with the key pad and lock the front doors with the keys but it seams even with the 3 rear actuators in any combonation i cant get them to stay in sink lols, i will replace the diodes tomorow if i can get them, but ill have to drive 140 km round trip to pick them up, if i cant get them there ill order online and try that to see if i can get the rears working atlest.




it seams it doesnt matter if i use the set i got from here or mix the actuators up it has the same results, is there any after market actuators i car wire up so i can still use the falcon key pads to keep my wife happy and still have the smart lock working ? also thinking a need locking doors and working smart lock for insurance, i wouldnt leave my car unlocked around here for to long.

does any one know of a way to test the body control modual,s to see if its crapped out on me and cycling the locks once the front signal actuators are plugged in ?

well my NF had a similar problem when i bought it i tried to fix it but failed no matter what i did i just put the jaycar system in it works perfectly but just a warning with the jaycar set dont use there little screws and clips etc they break i replaced em with proper bolts and nuts and due to the incredible speed of the jaycar system u want to squeeze the rod that connects the actuator to the door lock otherwise they can easily come off then ull be locked out of your car

but my EL fairmont had locking problem and i just went down to a mates and bought a lock actuator out of one of the EA's he was wrecking and presto it was fixed some people say there are different speeds but to be honest ive seen them out of EA-EL and they all have the same model numbers it just seems to vary on how good of a condition the electric motor is in on the speed

my jaycar locks set me back $55 i think it was but took me 2 days to install its a tedious task and takes alot of time with testing and fitting to get right wiring doesnt take long if you have experience getting wires to there location in a e series but my wires only just made it to the rear doors in the NF

it is possible it could be the door latch its self my NF had 3 busted ones and dads EL he had ages ago had central locking go up and down like crazy and he took it to a auto electrician who said its the door lock its self stuffing it up and the motors just take the door lock motor out of the door and test each latch your self put them through there passes make sure they hold in place and that they arnt to hard to move

the lock motors can be pulled apart and put back together rather easily if your blowing lock motors open up a blown one and see if its burnt the plastic inside

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You don't have to use the full loom that comes with the set, just use and cut the plugs off the current actuators and put the connectors from the kit onto the stock wiring. This will work with the factory remotes and doesn't have an effect on smartlock. In any case, I reckon it's cheaper to buy this set then finding used replacements.

I am not sure if the diodes will do anything. God knows what happens when you blew that fuse and it is possible that there could be damage to the BEM, but we can try and eliminate the motors first. If you have a multimeter, I would test the yellow power wire on each motor which should be 12v.

i tried to use the stock wiring but i must of been doing something wrong wouldnt work idk not to sure

but i did get it to work with my old ford remote

i think i answered my own question in my post, all i know for a fact is one front actuator i brought is dead, one of my orginal rear actuators was burnt out and a tad melted, along with the orginal 30 amp fuse.

i have checked the wiring out along with every thing else and it looks fine but it well could of caused damage to the bcm for all i know, i could buy the jaycar central locking kit and try and wire that into the stock wiring but there is a good chance they may not work, if there is damage done to the bcm.

so i think then only way to know 100% either way is to chase down a ef futura or xr6 mid series bcm, unfortunaly the mid series bcm,s are only found in xr6 and futura,s, ive tryed localy with no luck i did see a few on ebay last year but none now lols.

im not to keen to spend any more money on used actuators or a new set till i find out if its my bcm or not, but i could end up with another faulty bcm knowing my luck of recent, im hopping if it is a bcm fault i can use the 3 rear actuators and the 3 front actuators to finaly be able to lock my car lols

any one got a working blue ef mid series bcm floating around /

ok well i check over the wiring well as much as i could with out spliting wire harnesses and pulling 100% of the dash out, i installed another blue mid series bcm i picked up yesterday and the cars actuators are doing the same thing, rear out of sink and once the fronts are plug in they just cycle it doesnt matter if they are installed in the doors or sitting on the shed floor.

putting a multi meter on the wiring of the rear actuators im getting 12.75v constant rear right and rear left 12.67v constand, on the front right actualtor im getting 12.75v and 12.67 left front, im not sure if 0.10volt to left or right is a big deal.

when i test what i belive is the signal wires on the front actuators wire harnesses yellow wire with a black strip and yellow wire so strip, when either inside door lock button is pressed (havnt programed the key days yet) they are both jump upto the same voltage as the constant power wires read left and right, it doesn seam to pulse signals to constantaly lock or unlock the doors, the voltage quickly drops off a second or so after the button has been preased.

but when i plug in the used set of actuators or my oringal actuators into the front plug in the doors the actuators just cycle, i will investergate more, but i thought a short or a fualt would of showed up more easly by now or a short in one of the signal wires to trigger the actuators cycling, i will pull the dash/doors apart more and check each wire one by one and see how i go.

ill will also check the gregories book for any wire diagrams or any electrical items related to the central locking and see how i go, but any imput from any one else whos had the same problem and fixed it would be good.

If you want to check the BEM and you have a multimeter then you can try something else to test it before you buy anything. Unplug all the actuators. The lock, unlock wires on the BEM are Yellow-Black and Red-Blue from memory on the top most connector (which I think is black). Put your multimeter to ground and to one of those wires and lock then unlock the car. See if it is changing state from 0v to 12v each time you lock/unlock then then back to 0v when you lock or unlock again. Then do the same with the other wire. If that is ok, then lastly check that they are opposite polarity; that is, when the R-Blue is 12v, the Y-BL is 0v. If that is all good, then I would say the BEM is fine and it is the actuators. The drivers door actuator is key, that actually is a master "control" for all the other actuators.