I've bought some rear springs off a friend and was wondering if this is the best way to switch them out:
- Jack from the side of the car.
- After removing the wheel, get someone to stand on the brake hub.
- Once brake hub lowers enough pull stock spring out and replace with new spring.

Is it that easy or will the stock spring need to be compressed to get it removed?
Is there anything I should look out for like spring snapping out etc.?
Are there any bolts/holds holding the spring down or does it just sit there?

Do shocks defiantly have to be removed? I was told you could do it without having to remove the shock.
Anyway, if the shocks need to be removed it's only the bottom or the top bolt that needs to be taken off correct?

Probably not the best or safest way to do it.. Id use proper jack stands and lower the whole diff.
I did mine a few weeks ago.
Jack it up and make sure its on something a little more sturdy than just a jack. I had the chassis on jack stands and then used the jack on the diff to take the weight of it.
Remove wheels
Undo watts linkage to chassis bolts, bottom shock bolts, sway bar links? i was changing swaybars at the same time so had these undone and too.
Lower the diff down on the jack. I didnt drop it down low enough to have to take off the brake calipers but you might.
From there i just pulled the springs out. was a bit tight trying to get them past the shocks but i got there. would be easier to undo the top shock bolt too tho.
Then it was just the reverse. put new springs in and do them all up. springs just sit there. just make sure they seated correctly in the rubbers.
Thats what i did and i dont think ive missed anything have i??

i think we need to ask what model falcon is it????

is it e series live axle, or a/b series irs???

Going by his signature, it would suggest b-series.

And yes, you need to remove one of the shock bolts and disconnect the swaybar from the lower arms. Whether it be by the link pins or the cradle mounts.

You will still need a decent tire to leave the stock spring out, but it will be easy. Just have to becareful you dont put any stress on the brake line, as its the shock that stops the excessive travel of the lower arm.

Jacking time including spring swaps shouldn't be more than 20 mins.

If you get a low enough spring, then you might be able to avoid the dropping the swaybar and shock bolt and just leavering the thing out.

Thanks a lot for the help guys. I just did it now and I'm loving the firmer ride and it looks much neater. Haven't scrapped yet so fingers crossed lol.

What I did was really really simple. I just jacked it up from the side and used a jack stand just incase. I then removed the wheel and put the Ford jack underneath the arm incase it dropped etc. I then removed the top bolt of the shock and begun to lower the Ford jack until I could remove and the arm just hung there. Then whilst I was standing on the brake hub my mate had no issues in pulling out the stock spring and putting in the new one.
From there I just jacked the arm back up and rebolted the shock and that was it. Didn't take more than half an hour to do them.

I'd be very careful doing that again, or advising people to do that.

Don't know if you noticed, but the only thing stopping the arm from dropping any lower is the brake hose. And the hose is short, only a cm or 2 longer than full arm travel. So with you standing on the hub, I can see you would have been putting alot of strain on that poor brake hose. Hopefully it hasn't been damaged.

But the arm needs to go down that far anyway to get the spring out..?

It doesn't really.

Its why I suggested you drop the swaybar, as it allows the control arm to be lowered easily. Its what holds the control arm up when everything else is unbolted.

Allows you to say put a jack under the control arm and easily push it down and not stress the brake lines... And use a tire iron or crowbar to compress the spring just that little bit and lever the spring out.

Other way is to unbolt the caliper from the hub, then you can jump and bounce on it all you want.

Ahk fair enough. I'm not just saying this.. but my brake line had as a fair bit of slack and it never actually go stretched or anything so I think all should be good. Brakes seem to be working at the moment lol. I'll keep it in mind for next time though.