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| Nathanhrv |
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hey just wondering if changing the regulator for electric windows is an involved job or if it is simply just the removal of bolts and old regulator and the attachment of the new one
cheers |
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| ef mont |
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i just done mine and you have to drill the older motor bolts out as there like a rivit and cant be undone and replace with bolts and when it comes to putting the window back in the door after refitment slide it down on its side and then turn it back up.. cheers
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| Nathanhrv |
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thanks a lot for that mate see how i go
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| ef mont |
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Take the window out first thing and put it in last thing, when putting window in have the reg at the bottom and and bring it back up to screw the window on. Major tip make sure the front of the window gets nosed down into the door get it half way in and tilt it back to get it in both rubbers on each side of the door
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| Nathanhrv |
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ahh good stuff mate, thanks for the tips agen ill give it a go wen i got a bit of spare time. cheers mate
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| phongus |
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Uhh...I don't know about you ef mont...but I have never removed a window while changing over the motor
 .Remove door trims, if the motor has never been changed you will find rivets holding the motor in place (I think 4 of them...if not at least 3). Remove the glass mounting/retaining bolts, there are 2 bolts, if your window is currently in the up position, there are access holes to the bolts, if it's at the bottom you can get to them quiet obviously. Be careful when you do remove the retaining bolts, the glass might just drop unsuspectingly...I'd tape the window to the door frame for extra safety. I am not 100% sure, but IIRC, there are 4 bolts holding the window slider into place...2 at the top and 2 on the bottom of the door frame, remove those after you drill out the rivets that holds the motor. Someone correct me if I am wrong with the slider thing. The whole assembly should come loose as you undo the slider bolts. Unplug the wiring plug. Might need to move it in certain angles to get it out. Motor should be held into window winder assembly by 4 bolts. Just remove those 4 and replace with new motor. Make sure you check the teeth of the cogs and also the cabling that they are still in good condition. Cables tend to stuff up faster than cogs so make sure the cable runners/pulleys still have good grooves. Hope that helps.
_________________ phongus = Post whore 2006 |
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| Nathanhrv |
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thanks for that phongus that will be a huge help
cheers mate |
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| ef mont |
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The window has to be taken out as the rail it sides on comes out with the motor the motor is separate but still connected to it by cables that operate the rails.. Ands it's not 4 rivits just 3 make sure you get bolts to put it back in first they don't have to be big
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| madmax |
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ef mont wrote: The window has to be taken out as the rail it sides on comes out with the motor the motor is separate but still connected to it by cables that operate the rails.. Ands it's not 4 rivits just 3 make sure you get bolts to put it back in first they don't have to be big I'm with Phongus, I changed a regulator in my el without removing the glass. 2 bolts hold the bottom of the glass to the regulator. Once they are removed and with the glass in the upper position the regulator can be removed by drilling out the 3 6mm rivets. You can replace these rivets if you can get a lend of a 6mm riveter. Most people end up using bolts. With the glass, as I had tint film on it, I taped the outside of the glass to the window frame.
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| phongus |
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ef mont wrote: The window has to be taken out as the rail it sides on comes out with the motor the motor is separate but still connected to it by cables that operate the rails.. Ands it's not 4 rivits just 3 make sure you get bolts to put it back in first they don't have to be big Yes the rail it slides on does come out with the motor, but the glass can be separated from the slider rail via 2 bolts.
_________________ phongus = Post whore 2006 |
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| snap0964 |
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+1 with keeping the window in - especially with tint film, more chance to scratch it if you try getting it in/out.
I use a big screwdriver through the panel holes to keep the glass up temporarily. Check the plastic carrier and the cable swages, especially the up one - the swage will chafe through the plastic over time and use, particularly the front windows. You can get couple of small flatwashers, cut slots in them, fit them between the plastic and the cable swage, glue them in - do this now, before the problem happens when you don't want it to. Good idea to elongate the holes on the regulator carrier (that the glass bolts through), to give you more adjustment of the glass - adjustment is everything with these. And you should adjust the glass with the bolts done up loose and with it going up, probably around 3/4 to full up. The glass's movement will show you how it needs to be adjusted. Silicone sprays, etc do work, but inital adjustment is important.
_________________ 96 XH Longreach 'S': LPG, Alarm, 3.23:1 LSD, Cruise, Trip Comp, ABS, Power Windows, Mid Series Dome Lt, Climate Ctrl |
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| ef mont |
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Yeah as long as you tape it at the top well enough, it's easy enough to take it away to save risk or it falling or getting sht on it
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| ef mont |
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So snap? Did you mean the bolts holding the window on the rail should be done up at 3-4 because mine were done all the way up through the alowed cut outs
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| snap0964 |
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Depends, run the window down and up with the bolts slightly loose - on the up run, you'll see how the window sits.
Problem is the glass support is around the centre position, so the window can rock. With it mounted a bit too much angle, the window can wedge in one of the channels, so it can bind in places.
_________________ 96 XH Longreach 'S': LPG, Alarm, 3.23:1 LSD, Cruise, Trip Comp, ABS, Power Windows, Mid Series Dome Lt, Climate Ctrl |
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| Nathanhrv |
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thanks for the help guys
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