hi all i have got partially setup an MS3 V3 Megasquirt ecu on my ford EB5 LITER in my 60 series landcruiser and was interested in others success and of failure my brother has one in his patrol and he is extremely dissatisfied with it.
he is running a ford 5 liter as well
i would love nothing better to be able to go n play with the settings but he is to far away.

his runs rough cold and really rough hot needs some sorting out he is paying a dyno guy to do it but the dyno guy had not had anything to do with Megasquirt before and that was my first Megasquirt build i kinda f**k it up a little most of that has been sorted he is still not getting a propper signal from the oxy sensor.

so any opinions and help would be good
rod

Can I ask why you went with the Megasquirt over the factory ECU?

Put aside real time tuning as the EEC can be made to do that also.

As for help, I only have experience with the factory ECU. Is the MS a MAF or SD setup? You could get the stock tables and MAF curves for these engines from the factory EEC bins. If its SD then there is a mustang SD with the same engine you could get the VE tables from. You will probably need to extrapolate / interpolate to make it fit the MS.


Cheers.

any more details on the setup ?

what ignition setup ?
wideband o2 ?
isc connected ?
MAP or MAF setup ?

ok some more details and some reasons for .

its in a 60 series landcruiser had no looms or stock ecu .
had a Megasquirt in a rover a few years back it went rather well the read up on them and support seems fairly good .
and to be able to have dual ignition maps switchable for dual fuel was a desire that this can do
i really like the laptop dash setup .
i have the ecu set up with the base map i got from glenns garage for a 5 litre mustang .
OK i am running a EB 5 liter no MAF ,aircleaner mounted intake temp sensor as manifold temp sensor suffers from heat soak for this application factory idle control isn't working yet so i am using hand throttle for cold running haven't pulled it apart yet to see why it seems alright electrically ,

The land cruiser is a 1983 60 series with 1988 sahara interior / extra's ,running about 3 inchs of suspension lift and 33 inch all terrains lokright front diff open rear and a 8000 pound himount warn winch

rod

rod,
the megasquirt is no different then any other aftermarket ecu as far as accuracy and reliability.
as with any ecu it needs to be completely tuned for YOUR engine, base maps are just that, generic maps to get the engine started, however the complete fuel map and spark maps need to be tuned.
Once those maps are complete then you can concentrate on the cold start and warm up enrichment tables.
It wont run you engine any worse than a stock ecu, or a $1500+ ecu, providing all your wiring is done properly and the ecu is setup properly.

We also have a 60 series with an AU 4.0L, running a megasquirt ecu

Ignition setup is the ford tfi ?

if so sure you have the parameters correct ?
check your timing using a timing gun.

i had problems with the ford tfi the last time i messed around with my ms.
sounds like to me you have a timing issue.

So you have converted the engine control from the factory system where air flow was directly measured (Mass Air) to one where air flow is calculated (Speed Density). This is generally a backwards step, the tune usually becomes much more difficult to get close, and will never be as accurate as a comparable Mass Air system. These are some of the reasons why the US factory moved up from SD to MA - it's better to measure something directly rather than to calculate it indirectly as the individual measurement errors all compound.

My experience with Speed Density is that the headline cost is lower, but the tuning costs and engine running compromises tip the balance squarely in favour of Mass Air.

In my opinion a factory ecu would be a better solution than the aftermarket. A chip would allow timing tables to be switched between LPG & Petrol

definitely yes right up until she backfires on LPG cos she got a lil wet in 1.2 meter river crossing and it blows the a*** out of yet another airflow meter . now it wont run on petrol again so what i don't use petrol except for when i run out of LPG so far it only has happened once in the last 12 months and i was dragged 2 ks to the servo.


LPG doesn't need a airflow meter in fact your worse of for it and as far as im aware standard ecu is a real pain in the but to re tune for major mods and next to if not impossible to set up for dual ignition curves having a chip done doesn't work for me cos next week it will have a 3 mandrel bent exhaust done and last week it was a snorkel all of which change my parameters (i also have a large blue bottle i want to play with)
and further more i haven't converted the motor from factory as id didn't come out from factory in a landcruiser

about 2 years ago i had an 1992 dual fuel na fairlane auto was 2/3 the weight of the landcruiser was a litle slower of the mark and was only a little better on fuel

My work hack has an EB 5.0 on dual fuel. It runs a standard MAF upstream of the LPG addition point (GRA TB). I have dual ignition maps on my chip. No biggie, easy to do and has external timing switching from the petrol or LPG solenoid via a relay.

MA copes far better with engine mods than SD ever will since it's actually directly measuring the air. The MAF tells the ecu the airflow has changed. Whereas SD will carry on unaware of any changes unless you tell the ecu (through changes to VE table primarily) that something has caused the airflow into the engine to change. My daily driver ran around nicely for 3-4 months with a 220kW engine when the ecu wa expecting a 165kW engine. That's a 33% change is power and the standard ecu coped reasonably well

I've also had some HUGE LPG backfires (one blew my air box apart) but the MAF is still fine. The Factory 55mm MAF has good protection against backfires with the hot wire exit port located on the periphery of the housing at right angles to air flow, unlike the AU MAF which literally scoops up and concentrates backfires.

But it your decision. If you rarely use petrol, why not do dedicated LPG? There are mechanical advantages there and you don't need any engine control besides a conventional distributor and spark amplifier.