hi

just wondering what the lsd diffs in the eb2-el xr6 had and what the standard eb2-el single spinner diff had

if you get a lsd diff for a eb2 to el what diff gear ratio is reccomended

eh?

3.45:1 if your talking ratio.
There is no recommended without engine config/gearbox etc.
Factory is 3.45:1 in sedans/wagons in the XR variety
3.23:1 was an option and stock with LSD in manuals and wagons.
3.27:1 in early EB wagons.

3.08:1 with MOST slip diffs in an Auto sedan.

I preferred 3.23:1 with a Manual gearbox, but you'll find most here will state 3.7:1 - 3.9:1 as they're recommended ratio.

does 3.45 lsd diffs use more fuel or are they the same as the std diffs

got a new speedo sender on ebay would that suit a lsd diff

i am also wondering if 3.45:1 will use more fuel or if a higher ratio is recommended

i currently have a 3.23 atm and have been considering getting a 3.45:1 and possibly changing it to a higher ratio

I went from 3.08 to 3.45 in my ED and noticed SFA difference... Personally I think diff change is a waste of time unless you go to 3.7 or 4.11 - but of course be mindful of increased cruise revs.

With auto 4spd transmission and 3.45 diff the takeoff felt NO DIFFERENT - and it was STILL too high in 4th for 60k zone traffic - still needed to spend all the time at speeds below 80 in 3rd or even second if the traffic was under 60...

ofcourse it wont feel different if you have a gutless car.

lower ratio.
i'm trying to find a decent 3.45 lsd at the moment, as single spanner and manual suck. no traction

+1

I had 3.7s after doing a manual gearbox conversion and found it's annoying having the gear changes closer together, especially in city traffic. It might be great for the drag strip, but say goodbye to any fuel economy. The other thing to consider when using 3.7s, 3.9s & 4.11s, is that you'll need a Jaycar Speedo Corrector wired into your dash, or a suitable speedo drive cog in the gearbox.

i am lookin at gettin my 3.08 changed to a lsd in my ef with a EA t5 it sits at just over 2000rpm at 100 works well on the highway but a lil sluggish off the line till the cam comes in at 2000, or maybe goin to a 3.23 to just pick it up a 100revs but goin to 3.45 would end up to much for long trips sittin at just over 2600rpm no more fuel then

STADIC

My manual has a 3.27 diff in it from the factory...

Your 3.08 would have been behind an auto? 3.27 was the ratio to suit a T5...

3.45 were in all XR spec falcons be it auto or manual... 3.45 will not cause you to sit on 2600rpm unless you have some serious ratio issues in your gearbox...

I sit on about 2000 with my 3.27... I'm going to a 3.45 very shortly...

I find my car better at 110km/hr than 100km/hr... While yes you are doing more revs I found that the less the motor labours the better fuel economy is... Hence the 110km/hr being a bit better (so the trip computer says)... Hopefully the 3.45 will mean I'm doing this amount of revs for 100 instead of 110 so I am hoping to increase fuel economy...

Those with trip computers will agree that as soon as the motor starts to labour it chews some phenomenal amount of juice... Were doing a few more revs doesn't...

But obviously 3.7 onwards is going to be doing way too many revs... I think this would certainly use more fuel...

Cheers,
Tim

my car was a factory ef 3.08/auto and now i use a ea 3.9 T5 which uses lower gears then the 4.0 ea onwards hence my comment on revs (which wasnt math tested before i typed it)

STADIC

top ratio is difference... the T5 has .69 or something like that 5th ratio... I'd think the EF may be closer to 1...

Hence the ratio change... Auto had 3.08 and manual had 3.27

Also with the 3.27 makes it easier to take of in a manual (less chance of stalling) where this is not an issue for the auto...

As mentioned all XR's run 3.45... auto or manual... And they get fine fuel economy...

Cheers,
Tim

Gotta love an "expert" - it's actually the opposite...

- standard or weak cars will probably feel more of a noticeable difference off the line - cars making good power need a DECENT change in ratio to see a real benefit - a SMALL change actually causes a LOSS of launch performance - I have EXPERIENCED this.

My ED had 4480's, hi flow exhaust, JMM cam (which uses 3mm of extra shimming), Broadband Manifold, ELXR6 ECU - with BBM switchover and knock sensing wired in, EFXR6 head with cleaned up chambers, K&N Filter and Ta-DA! Custom CAI (Woot! ). It was initially 4spd auto - with electric shift kit - and then I converted it to T5 with Extreme Clutches LBFSBBMoat clutch ( that's Leg Busting, Firewall Shredding Bastard Brute Mongrel of a thing).

In the case of my ED I actually got a noticeably SOFTER initial "jump" - less leverage after all - after which yes it did wind up quicker thru the rev range - but only a tiny bit - because in REAL terms the step from 3.08 to 3.45 is actually very SMALL. It's that tiny change in rpm and wind up rate that I'm saying makes 3.45 a waste of time. In fact the change to 3.45 helped my midrange and top end - A LITTLE BIT - but HURT my performance off the line!

In traffic I still had the problem of little throttle making too much response in D - so I was constantly still using 3rd and 2nd - so again the TINY increase in gearing wasn't enough for any real benefit in tractability. All these things held true also once I converted to T5. Manual clutching did get me back the initial "jump" - but when all's said and done the clutch just enabled me to "simulate" somewhat lower gearing...

I say again that IMO going to 3.45 from 3.08 is a waste of time, effort and money (and from 3.23 - are you kidding?? ) - tho going to 3.9 or 4.11 sound like they might well be TOO FAR for a streetable car - ie. suited more for offsetting the bottom end in cars with hi rpm cams.

After reading people's experience with 3.9 and lower, I would say 3.7 would be the way to go.