Hi All
Firstly my car is a standard AU2 Jan 2001 build, aftermarket gas / duel fuel setup.

It has been playing up a bit since taking the engine out to fix some major oil leaks. I have very low idle when sitting in gear and it was backfiring upon takeoff from lights or roundabouts backfire is ok but still have idle issue.

I've soldered some pins to some wires and connected into the idle control valve sitting on top of the butterfly and my multimeter. Once the car is warmed up I get about 3.8VDC at idle out of gear producing about 740RPM. When I put it into gear it drops to about 3.3 and the revs come down to 550 causing the whole car to vibrate. If you turn on the AC the volts and revs go up if you move the steering wheel back and forwards the volts and revs go up so I'm deducting that the actual valve is OK and working correctly so too is the inputs to the computer from the power steering pressure and AC switches.

I've tried the EECV relearn by removing the battery for a while and then doing the drive AC no AC neutral etc procedure. Anyhow hasn't made any difference. I've had the gas retuned due to the backfire issue and showed the gas mechanic the reading from the multimeter and he agreed that the Valve is OK (voltage and revs increase when AC put on but not when put in gear) I tested for voltage at the gearbox (with it connected to box by using the pins on wire trick)_and I got 4V in P, 3.5 in R, 3 in N, 2.5 in D, 2 in 3, 1.5 in 2, and 1 in 1 so that seemed ok also connected to socket with wire unplugged and got 14.1Kohms in P, 12.1K ohms in R, 10.1K ohms in N, 8.3K ohms in D, 6.5K Ohms in 3, 4.8K ohms in 2 and 3.1K ohms in 1.So the switch and supply to the switch seemed OK I then removed the EECV (pain in the neck that tamperproof screw) and disconnected the battery then the EECV loom. I put my meter between pin 90 and 64 and got the same ohm readings through the gears so that pretty well tells me that the signal is getting to the EECV.

Do you think I have a faulty input to the EECV pin 64? This seems the only answer to me. Also can I swap an EECV or do I have to have the matching body computer? If so will my key give the new body computer the right code? If anyone can put me onto someone who knows what they are doing in the south of Adelaide I’m quite happy to pay for a diagnostic or reprogram etc.

Mine is the following series (something I read suggest that this is AU3 but car is a 2001 AU2)
12BE EEC-V
ETV734
1R23-12A650-BE *LG2BEFCPS5G8*
GNPF0M14C

Thanks Darren

Pull the fault codes from the ECU, I think you can do it with a test light, but you might need a scan tool.

Gab

Can anyone tell me what to do to read the fault codes. I had a Haynes manual but I think someone nicked it from work.

Thanks

pretty sure you can't do it yourself from au onwards..... thanks fraud.

just got quoted $50 to $150 to throw it on local frauds scantool.... that's pretty broad, i'd consider buying my own for that kind of money everytime you need codes pulled.

hopefully I stand corrected.

remove the intake duct and clean out the throttle body with a rag and carby cleaner,
then disconnect the plug off the ISC, and start the engine, it will more than likely stall.
keep winding the throttle stop screw in until it idles around 550-600 rpm, then reconnect the ISC, you will find that will more than likely resolve your problem