|
EF_wanabe |
|
||
|
Got a AU with a cracked exhaust manifold i believe or maybe the piping that comes of the actual manifold
just curious is it possible to use EF/EL parts ? |
||
Top | |
low_ryda |
|
|||
|
sure it's not leaking from the dogey factory flange arrangement ?
_________________ Not to get technical, but according to chemistry alcohol is a solution. |
|||
Top | |
Johnson stroker |
|
|||
|
to answer your question, yes, an e-series exhaust manifold to interchangable.
_________________
|
|||
Top | |
tickford_6 |
|
||
Posts: 6449 Joined: 11th Nov 2004 |
Good reason to by a set of extractors...
|
||
Top | |
EF_wanabe |
|
||
|
im poor oem FTW
ya its the "flange" arrangement, the 2 bolts are lose but i undid them and re did them up only a few turns they went tried putting a hydro jack under the cat to hold it up but no luck would it be worth undoing it all completely and puting a new "flange" in |
||
Top | |
low_ryda |
|
|||
|
the flange has been troubling me for years....
couldn't resist hehe I think it sounds like a good excuse for extractors also but you have to consider cat modification with most extractors don't you ? or another good excuse to factor that in as well. band aid would be to drop the cat, clean up the bolts and add some exhaust sealant I guess. I'm sure someone will have a better solution though..
_________________ Not to get technical, but according to chemistry alcohol is a solution. |
|||
Top | |
EF_wanabe |
|
||
|
Anyone got any ideas, is the "flange" replaceable or anything ?
i just need the car quiet its a daily driver and hate the sound of exhaust |
||
Top | |
misk_one |
|
|||
|
what part of the 'flange' are you referring to?
if its the manifold end it would need to have something epic happen to cause some damage to it to cause a leak... which is unlikely, but can happen. if its the exhaust side, it could just be out of shape to mate with the manifold properly, but still shouldn't be an issue due to the design which allows for a tiny bit of play.. when you are putting it back together try to make sure you do up each bolt at a bit of a semi even pace - ie. one bolt 3 turns, then switch to the other bolt. if you do one side up all the way before the other it can cause some dramas. the best way to get to the bolts is from underneath the car with an extension - as long as the cat is still mounted to the bracket at the gearbox, you shouldn't really need to support it with a jack, its best to get the bolts in place a few turns in the thread and then let the flange sort itself out as you do it up as described above. if its being done up and mates 100% square then you really only have the option of replacing the offending side.
_________________ XG Panelvan |
|||
Top | |
low_ryda |
|
|||
|
sounds like even more of a reason to go extractors with cat and get a real 2 or 3 bolt flange.
_________________ Not to get technical, but according to chemistry alcohol is a solution. |
|||
Top | |
Gab1 |
|
|||
|
You need to undo them, clean up the bolts with a wire brush, maybe spray em up with some CRC, and do them up VERY evenly, but yeah good excuse to get extractors.
Gab |
|||
Top | |
Johnson stroker |
|
|||
|
good excuse to get a turbo manifold more like it.
_________________
|
|||
Top | |
EF_wanabe |
|
||
|
dc_todd wrote: good excuse to get a turbo manifold more like it. now thats more like it found a set of lukey extractors out of an EA for $60 , there a fair bit rusted would you bother for that price though ? |
||
Top | |
Gab1 |
|
|||
|
depends how rusted and weather they clean up any good.
Gab |
|||
Top | |
misk_one |
|
|||
|
give em a sand, whack on some rust converter/preventer and give them a few good coats of exhaust paint and would be hard to tell the difference.
as long as there is no epic rust on the inside or any areas that are beginning to actually rot, would be a fair bargain.
_________________ XG Panelvan |
|||
Top | |
Who is online |
---|
Users browsing this forum: Google Adsense [Bot] and 84 guests |