Hi guys,

I really am sorry, i know this topic has been thrashed to death, i've had a quick search around and am unable to come up with any kind of answer to my pondering.I've just purchased my new BA XR8 which has inherited the typical brake shudder. I've also purchased new DBA Gold rotors and EBC pads cheaply through work.

Now i know overtightening the wheel nuts creates rotor distortion and odd runout, would have over-tightning the wheel nuts by the previous owner have affected [distorted] the hub/bearing assembly also? Might it be good practice to replace the hubs while everything is out of the car, or would i be wasting time and money?

Also would anyone have the specific wheel nut torque settings?

All help appreciated =)

If the car has been driven HARD and hasn't been too well looked after maybe it WOULD be a good idea to replace the hubs, they can be bought cheaply on Ebay,, about $60.00 each and this would at least give you peace of mind. They are the same from AU I to BF II with OR without ABS. At least you wouldn't be starting with rust on the hubs.

Good point there, and thanks for the info . The car has been very well looked after, however it is pushing 180,000km's. I think you're right in replacing the hubs for peace of mind and considering they're so cheap, i'd be mad not to.

Now i don't want to push the friendship, but you wouldn't happen to know what torque measurement the techs use to do up the wheel nuts? This is one thing i DO want to get right.

You will need a 32mm socket and a nice long 1/2in drive bar to get them off and then tighten to 300nm.
If you find them a tad tight to get off, use a hammer behind the hub to remove, I did.

One of our Sponsors, FTG auto salvage has them for $46.00 each.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/FALCON-AU-BA ... 5199c4b6f6

mr papa he means the wheel nut torque specs


me i just tighten by hand

iirc it was teh s**t rotors ford used on the ba that any sort of hard driving caused the shudder