full rebuild.. bottom and top end.
blue printed balanced bottom end..
high volume oil pump.
ACL race series pistons.
ported/polished/shaved heads..
oversize intake/exhaust ports/valves/brass valve guides..
adjust the head to suit a wade 1673 cam
adjustable cam gear..
70mm polished throttlebody..
how much would it roughly cost me to do these mods to my engine? im saving but i dont know how much i will need to do all this to my el xr6?

Get a quote, you will find they will vary quite a bit depending on parts used, how familiar they are with rebuilding the engine, actual work needing to be done etc.

As a piss in the dark, $5000.

Last edited by skidder on Sun Jul 03, 2011 1:31 am, edited 1 time in total.

im gonna go out on a limb and say a T5 conversion will give great results, and will cost roughly 1/2 the price if you get it fully reconditioned along with new clutch

I no I was thinking about that too but I need to do the head cos it's f**k just don't know whether to do the bottom end or not. But I've got a few issues to sort out. Does any one know what the problem would be when the car warms up the oil pressure drops does that mean the bottom ends f**k or does that just mean s**t oil?? Or oil problems?

I no I was thinking about that too but I need to do the head cos it's f**k just don't know whether to do the bottom end or not. But I've got a few issues to sort out. Does any one know what the problem would be when the car warms up the oil pressure drops does that mean the bottom ends f**k or does that just mean s**t oil?? Or oil problems?

Blue printing bottom end won't be cheap and nor will port and polish of head. I think both combined will already be around the $4-5K mark. Not to mention block will probably be decked, honed and pretty much cleaned up. ACL Race series rebuild kit is around $1000 and then labour on top...I say put aside AT LEAST $10K if you are not doing anything yourself.

low km AU motor, new headgasket while its out, AU regrind cam, T5 conversion...... will have a bit of go for the outlay

well at the moment my planes were just to shave the head reco it ive got the wade 1673 with j3 chip but need to get the head done to suit the cam.stronger valve springs and that adjustable cam gear and the au head gasket but latly ive started to get the problem of when i put water in the car she spits it out through the exhuast and once it warms up the oil pressure drops... i dont know what that means? if that means the bottom end could be f**k then im thinking of getting a low k's au bottom end work the head and fit it on the bottom end. but i dont no if the bottom ends F**kd? any ideas on what the problem could be?

How far does the oil pressure drop? At operating temperature the oil can sit at the first line above the red. Also spits out the back? is that only when you just start it up or all the time?

fill the water line with water and it just gets thrown out of the exhuast once it gets going. and the oil pressure drops when the car warms up like past half way mark. for example driving 15 km's in the morning, the first 8 k's runs not to bad as long as its moving along, then after that oil pressure starts to drop needs higher revs or car will stall, so pretty much if i stop at a set of lights after 15k's of driving i need to put it in neutral and rev it abit to stop from stalling.

Like I said before, the oil pressure can sit below half way once the car is at operating temperatures. In the mornings when the oil is still cold and thick, the oil pressure will sit higher during idle than it would when the oil is hot and at operating temperature. So, the gauge would read above half way when cold and below half way when hot. At idle, my car when hot, sits between the first and second line above the red on the oil pressure gauge, when cold it sits 3 lines up. So it's normal for oil pressure to drop as the car warms up.

What do you mean by water getting thrown out of the exhaust? as in just steam or you can actually see a flow of water like a fire hydrant? If it's steam and it's morning, that's most likely normal, if the steam disappears after the car is at operating temp, then there is nothing to worry about. Obviously, if you have a fire hydrant exhaust, your engine is as good as cooked, but since you say you drive for 15km, that is obviously your problem.

When you fill the cooling system to the line, how long till you have to top it up? You could have a leak somewhere else in the cooling system, not just at the head gasket. If the hoses on the car have never been replaced, chances are there is a leak somewhere. It could also be as simple as a worn radiator cap letting water out the overflow hose while you're driving.

Finally, your idle issue could be due to the idle speed controller (ISC). Unplug it, give it a clean and while you're at it, clean the whole throttle body. Plug everything back in and see what happens. If it's still the same, then ISC might be at fault. If it's not the ISC, you might have one hell of a vacuum leak where by the car is now running like a dog, uses a hell of a lot of fuel and the idle is jumpy and crap.

Have a look at all those and see what happens. It could be something really simple and cost less than a whole rebuild...unless you just want a rebuild and trying to find a reason to get one done.