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| 79 raven |
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Got the pump out, removed from sender unit........ Bosch fuel pump has + and - Terminals, but what wires are positive/neg? Please help
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| creeture3 |
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Wires only go on one way there is a small and large terminal, or there should be!!
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| 79 raven |
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Got it today mate. The bosch pump had the terminals screw in. Red + white -. Thanks mate. Do you know whats up with the sender unit? THis cars giving me the s**t. Fix one thing so something else brakes
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| creeture3 |
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The sender works on a variable current. When the float is low, low current, when high, high current, IIIRC, but I don't know what voltage it is. Have a look at where the float rubs on the wiring on the sender. If there is a break, it wont work, or maybe the float is not rubbing on the wiring?
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| 79 raven |
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Sounds like it might be the go, I do know the float was swinging round like a nympho bloke at a porn shop, so maybe I have broken the wires there. If I pull it out and check it out and the sender does need to be replaced, do you think the pump will hold if I remove it as soon as I get the assembly out and drop it and leave it in a bucket with fuel in it? I have been told the pumps are buggered when they dry out and I am worried about wasting another $80 on another pump
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| creeture3 |
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The pumps are dry when you buy them, so keeping them in fuel really won't do much. Problems occur when you run them dry for extended periods. The sender really can't be "replaced" as it is a complete unit. The best way is to try to get one from a wreckers, although the wreckers seem to have a bad habit of cutting the wires, rather than disconnecting them
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| 79 raven |
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Sorry mate the whole unt was what I meant. Max, a fellow modder said he might have one off an ed, but he thinks the hose connections are different. The pump burning out makes sence too. Might have a squizz tomorrow, just want to be sure if the sender units rooted that I can have a replacement on the way i.e collected asap so I dont have to put it back together and then apart again
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| snap0964 |
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The sender unit is really only the wiper arm and the resistance card.
Test the card, and test the wiper arm is making good contact. From empty to full you're looking at 0-176 ohms. Most likely the card has a broken wire, or the wiper arm has worn them through - the resistance is really only wound wire. Any EBII-EL sedan/wagon cards will do. With the sender disconnected, the dash gauge should be reading full scale (past the full mark).
_________________ 96 XH Longreach 'S': LPG, Alarm, 3.23:1 LSD, Cruise, Trip Comp, ABS, Power Windows, Mid Series Dome Lt, Climate Ctrl |
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| 79 raven |
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so if I unplug the sender unit wires that run along the outside of the tank in the spare wheel well with the ignition on( cant run the car because pump wires join in the same plug), should the guage read over full? If it doesnt what does that mean?
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| creeture3 |
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I'll let snap0964 take over from here, as he obviously knows more than I do about the eletrickery side of things
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| snap0964 |
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79raven wrote: so if I unplug the sender unit wires that run along the outside of the tank in the spare wheel well with the ignition on( cant run the car because pump wires join in the same plug), should the guage read over full? If it doesnt what does that mean? So do it and post what you get.Also get some one with some electrics knowledge and a meter to give you a hand. You have enough info in this thread to sort it out.
_________________ 96 XH Longreach 'S': LPG, Alarm, 3.23:1 LSD, Cruise, Trip Comp, ABS, Power Windows, Mid Series Dome Lt, Climate Ctrl |
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| 79 raven |
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I disconnected then reconnected the battery today and now the guage is reading just over the red line, about where it should be. Then I thought to double check I would drop $10 into it and see if it moves and it has stayed where it is. Could the float be stuck?
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