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Rick_Deckard |
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Hi folks,
I did a few searches on this forum and other forums and learnt quite a bit, but would like to be 100% sure as to what the problem is, so I can take it on myself. The problem is this, when the engine is on: - Applied brake = sound of gas escaping under the dash - Applied brake = have to press pedal further than normal to stop Symptons: - Can see two lines of leaking brake fluid (where the brake booster and master cylinder meet) The gas escaping noise had me thinking it was the booster, but having to put my foot further down and the leaking has me thinking master cylinder. Any help will be much appreciated, thanks folks Adam P.S. If you are a member of the other forum I posted this on, yes I did copy + paste, lol.
_________________ E39 523i Last edited by Rick_Deckard on Tue Aug 30, 2011 12:56 pm, edited 2 times in total. |
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bry40l |
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well if the master cyl is leaking fluid, you can buy a rebuild kit to replace the rubbers, which would be a good idea as one day you might end up with no brakes if the fluid gets too low
_________________ BF XR6 |
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Rick_Deckard |
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Yeah I remember the last time I had no brakes, had the master cylinder replaced then (only a few damn years ago).
Had to drive all the way from Toowong out to Loganholme, was a pretty scary trip to say the least.
_________________ E39 523i |
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racedirector |
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Age: 63 Posts: 1584 Joined: 20th Mar 2005 Ride: EDL Fairmont Wagon/AU XR8 Ghia Location: Riverstone |
We had the hissing brake pedal in our EF Mont and it was the booster. Exactly the same symptoms as you are experiencing. Chuck in a replacement and all was fine with the world again......
Cheers RD
_________________ =1994 ED Wagon GLi body/EL Fairmont spec with *ALL* EL running gear.= |
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snap0964 |
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+1 with the booster - hissing + hard pedal, dead giveaway.
What's the pedal feel with the engine off ?? With the vacuum expended in the booster, pedal should be pretty firm, might be a bit softer with first application. Most likely you'll get away with replacing the rear O ring on the primary piston - check with a brake place, I'm not sure if a std hydraulic one will suffice. You can remove the primary and secondary pistons and check the master cyl bore for scoring while you're at it. If there is bad scoring, throw it and get a new one. Grab a Gregory's or similar to read up on the above. If you're not sure or confident, leave it to a pro - brakes are not something to balls up. The other leak might be dripping from the reservoir cap - can't tell, you've taken the pic at the worst possible angle for that one.
_________________ 96 XH Longreach 'S': LPG, Alarm, 3.23:1 LSD, Cruise, Trip Comp, ABS, Power Windows, Mid Series Dome Lt, Climate Ctrl |
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Rick_Deckard |
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Thanks for the replies.
I lost my Gregories in this house a few months back, going nuts trying to find it. Ummm, as far as I can tell the resistance from the pedal when the engine is off is about the same as when all was well. Maybe a brake place is my best bet I guess, with knowledge on my side hopefully that will help to decrease the chances of having some chum try and rip me off. O and that leak isn't from the reservoir, it starts at the two furthermost points of where the master cylinder meets the brake booster. Thanks again folks.
_________________ E39 523i |
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