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| Dax |
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Hey,
I've been looking for a 4 bolt main 351c block now and they seem to be hard to get your hands one, Now I have had an offer of a good 2 bolt block and the seller has said you can change them into a 4 bolt block? He said that the only difference is a higher nickel and slightly thicker walls. Is this all true? How hard is this to get done? The engine I'm going to build, I will be hoping for 500-600hp, Will a block like this take this? Also will it last? Thanks in advance.
_________________ Daxxx. |
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| xafalcon |
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4 bolt conversion is common, all cleveland blocks were cast with the outboard bolt bosses and were identical in casting except for the special nascar and pillow blocks. The 4 bolt caps are skimmed then the main tunnel is line bored to size. The end result is truer than a used block. 600HP is well within a cleveland blocks capability, so long as the assembly and tune is good
_________________ XA Faimont 351C, AU2 XR8 Manual 5.0, DA LTD 5.0, Mk1 Capri 5.0, 1995 Mustang 5.0, EF2 XR8 Manual, EF2 Fairmont Ghia 5.0, AU3 XR8 Auto, AU2 XR8 Auto, AU2 XR8 Manual Ute, TE Cortina 5.0 Manual, DU LTD 5.0 soon to be manual |
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| Dax |
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{USERNAME} wrote: 600HP is well within a cleveland blocks capability, so long as the assembly and tune is good Well within a 2 bolt blocks capability or just a 4 bolt block?
_________________ Daxxx. |
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| XR9UTE |
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Higher nickel and thicker walls is not true of 4 bolt blocks and you'll see that all blocks have the bosses there for the outer set of bolts.
A mate of mine is running 575hp out of his 2 bolt cleveland with a girdle and no problems. It's the cylinder walls that are the main problem with clevelands, so you could do a partial grout fill as my mate has done with his. He canes the f**k out of it regularly and it doesn't get hot or play up at all. |
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| 66 coupe |
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we have a 393 clevo that does just over 600hp, it was 2 bolt un grouted block and after approx 30 passes and around 1500 street kms we tore it down to prep it a bit better (we never anticipated it would make that much hp initially so didnt bother grout filling it etc ) and all was spot on except for a couple of main caps that were walking.
Ideally 4-bolt mains or dowell the 2 bolt mains, a girdle would help slightly but the caps can still walk under the girdle. |
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| xafalcon |
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{USERNAME} wrote: we have a 393 clevo that does just over 600hp, it was 2 bolt un grouted block and after approx 30 passes and around 1500 street kms we tore it down to prep it a bit better (we never anticipated it would make that much hp initially so didnt bother grout filling it etc ) and all was spot on except for a couple of main caps that were walking. Ideally 4-bolt mains or dowell the 2 bolt mains, a girdle would help slightly but the caps can still walk under the girdle. Interesting that you still had main cap movement with a girdle. In my experience I have always found them superior to 4 bolt caps since they tie all 10 main studs together. What brand of girdle did you use? I have always used DSS racing girdles & windage trays. I'll keep an eye out for main cap movement when I pull my supercharged 5.0 apart later in the year.
_________________ XA Faimont 351C, AU2 XR8 Manual 5.0, DA LTD 5.0, Mk1 Capri 5.0, 1995 Mustang 5.0, EF2 XR8 Manual, EF2 Fairmont Ghia 5.0, AU3 XR8 Auto, AU2 XR8 Auto, AU2 XR8 Manual Ute, TE Cortina 5.0 Manual, DU LTD 5.0 soon to be manual |
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| 66 coupe |
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there wasnt a girdle
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