I run Burson kit and they are fine for me. Just make sure you don't get any dirt in there while you pack it with grease. Don't think brake disc thickness will make any difference...bearings are rotating at high speeds and produce a hell of a lot of heat as is. Brakes won't make any difference to temp IMO.

they're meant to be changed?

just for the record, when i replaced my rotors i used the original bearings that were in the car on the new cups and it has been that way for 15000kms...

my eb still has the same bearings from when i bought it 51/2-6 years ago and i dont know if they were changed befor.

No dirt in them man. I change them at work so they are very clean.
Got me stumped.
Ill go with caster camber kit first I think. Seems most likely to me. Apparently my cambers way out and so's the caster.

You did change the cups, right?

I got 120k from a set of bearings on an EB

If by cups you mean races then yes.

Your problem is you are $10 cheap s**t china bearings. Go get some decent bearings.
There is a reason good bearings cost $40 plus per corner. and it isn't profit margin.

Yea reckon so

Or you can keep using s**t bearings and change them like you have been.

But what would I know. My EF (same bearing size as your car) had 60 000 on the bearings when I sold it. I would expect over 100 000km from them. You fit big rims with the wrong offset and larger tire OD then yeah you'll cut the life of them, But you should still see over 50 000km from a good bearing with good grease and the right preload.

4 Thing will shorten the life of your bearings.
Cheap bearings
wrong grease
wrong preload
contamination

3 of them are self inflicted, the forth you say you don't have.
Do your self a favour, go buy some Timkin bearings and Timkin wheel bearing grease.
and learn how to set the preload.

Would you say normal brand name HTB grease such as Castrol or Penrite is no good?

I would say it's not as good as the Timkin stuff

Exactly why are they needing to be replaced? - if it's just that they seem to come loose then maybe you're not bottoming out the new cups properly? If the grease is going all strange like it's been burnt then you're probably doing them up too tight.

Alternatively, if you're torquing them up properly are they then actually PHYSICALLY properly tight?? - I know that on my ED I was close to changing the spindles because I had to really lay into it and do the front nuts up really tight just to stop the rotors from wobbling - so something seems to have been up with the shape / dimension of the shafts (was worse on one side than the other). ie. if you're doing them up properly torque wise but they're still loose then that might flog them out too...

With LOTS of wheel bearing experience on all sorts of aircraft from tiny training planes to Dash-8 and BAE146 it actually takes something pretty way out to actually cause them to stuff up - ie. I've come across bearings that were evidently outside the proper settings for tightness - both too loose and too tight - but they were actually running ok - and instances where failure has evidently been due to being too loose or too tight it's been like REALLY loose or REALLY tight.

I've done 30,000km on my bearings in my EF wagon since I brought it 10months ago, no idea if and when they were replaced before i got it at 181,000km, a lot of this mileage is hard driving through back roads... It's been on 17's and lowering springs for a while now and one of them came a bit loose so I replaced the front rotors and repacked them and now their both fine. I also replaced the hub seals. $2 each or something silly like that.