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bry40l |
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the bottom of the dizzy needs to drop down into the oil pump, so what you need to do is just slip the dizzy in where ever it will sit rite in the oil pump, turn the motor until the rotor button is sitting where you want it to be on the number 1 spark plug lead, then take the dizzy out line the crank up tdc which is when the number 1 (closest to the front of the motor) cylinder is on the compression stroke and the piston isright at the top,(you check the compression stroke with your finger in the spark plug hole and turn the motor until air compresses on your finger then keep turning the motor until the pressure stops) then drop the dizzy in and the oil pump should be lined up where you need it and the dizzy will drop in where you need it. then you have tdc compression stroke and then it should start and you fine tune it in diagnostic mode with a timing light
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TimmyAussie |
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So what your saying is
Put in dizzy turn crank until it lines up with no.1 spark Mark it so I know the position Turn Crank to TDC/Compression Drop dizzy in and it should bottom out to the oil pump Then fine tune. Sounds good, just a question with the alignment of the button/needle whatever you call it. Does it have to be centred witht the no.1 spark or is it just touching as it hits 10BTDC? Cheers, Tim. |
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TimmyAussie |
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bry40l |
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{USERNAME} wrote: So what your saying is Put in dizzy turn crank until it lines up with no.1 spark Mark it so I know the position Turn Crank to TDC/Compression Drop dizzy in and it should bottom out to the oil pump Then fine tune. Sounds good, just a question with the alignment of the button/needle whatever you call it. Does it have to be centred witht the no.1 spark or is it just touching as it hits 10BTDC? Cheers, Tim. set it right on no 1 spark plug lead, then just start the car and fine tune it with the light to where you need it and tighten the retaining bolt
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TimmyAussie |
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I tried messing around with the Dizzy again today, I feel like it's 1 tooth out, needs to be retarded. I had a look with the timing light and it's fireing @ TDC not @ IGN which is TDC -10degrees. Don't know what I'm doing wrong here.
I have the crankshaft set to TDC mark and on the compression stroke. I have the needle pointing DIRECTLY @ #1 Does the needle need to be a little retarded away from #1 @ TDC? The pictures don't do much justice but It starts very roughly and pushing the dizzy hard against the manifold (anti-clockwise, which should retard it) makes it start better but it has to be hard against it and it is still 10degrees out. Should I try to Retard the timing tomorrow? by changeing a tooth? Or any other suggestions? Cheers, Tim. |
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TimmyAussie |
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Ok I'm pretty sure it is now in the right spot, with it running I can set the timing light and line it up with TDC nicely. Only problem now is... IT RUNS LIKE CRAP! It's got smoke greyish coming from the exhaust, seems like it is running rich. Now how do I solve this?
Cheers, Tim. |
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bry40l |
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{USERNAME} wrote: I tried messing around with the Dizzy again today, I feel like it's 1 tooth out, needs to be retarded. I had a look with the timing light and it's fireing @ TDC not @ IGN which is TDC -10degrees. Don't know what I'm doing wrong here. I have the crankshaft set to TDC mark and on the compression stroke. I have the needle pointing DIRECTLY @ #1 Does the needle need to be a little retarded away from #1 @ TDC? The pictures don't do much justice but It starts very roughly and pushing the dizzy hard against the manifold (anti-clockwise, which should retard it) makes it start better but it has to be hard against it and it is still 10degrees out. Should I try to Retard the timing tomorrow? by changeing a tooth? Or any other suggestions? Cheers, Tim. this is the same issue i had, set it to tdc on number 1 in the dizzy cap, still wasnt firing at tdc, and i had it hard against the motor anti clockwise, but once i put the motor into diagnostic mode i had to come clockwise a little to get it right, so if i was you id throw it into diagnostic mode and then set it to the mark its ment to be on(as the timing mark doesnt jump around in diagnostic mode as its more steady you can set it and then when its set dead on the mark, tighten the retaining bolt and check it again to make sure it hasent moved then go for a spin, my car seemed to spit alot of fuel out the exhaust after i had been playing with the timing in diagnostic mode but i took it for a quick run and it returned to normal
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TimmyAussie |
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Alrighty! She be Starting nicely now... wouldn't believe how basic a problem i was having... I forgot the Vaccum hose for the MAF sensor... so she was just dumping endless amounts of fuel in there... I couldn't find my bloody hose that came off, so I went to a wreckers and gave em my old cat for 20$ cash and got some high quality "super sports" bosch plugs and a nice looking dizzy cap, cause my old one doesnt look so nice... Picked it all up with change to spare from the 20$ !
Anybody know how long the Self-Test mode lasts for? As in after resetting the ECU. It's basically all working now, except the final wiring for the thermo fans that im frantically do it now so I can go for a drive. Ummm so yeah I'll update later and tell ppl how it's going. Thanks for all the people who helped me along the bumpy way! Cheers, Tim. |
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bry40l |
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yeah never knew you touched any of that or i would of suggested it lol, you have to put the car into diagnostic mode by bridging 2 pins together (for el its top left,bottom left) but im sure i read somewhere its different to ed in that the el takes up to 2 minutes to kick in to diag-spastic mode and i think it only lasts for 2 minutes, but im sure the earlier ea eb ed is different unless running elcomputer
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