Cheers ED XR8

If you believe, that the motor would only be safe to run at about 8psi or 200rwkw or thereabouts, i might even have to start looking at a n/a motor even, cause is 8k on a blower gonna be worth it if i can only safely run at 200rwkw.
I would still love to go the charged route and probably will.

Ok a couple more Q's....
Running around 200rwkw, am i definately going to need, bigger injectors, fuel pump, MAF, TB or intake at all?
Basically could i get away without replacing any of these?

Even if i rebuilt the motor, had the Vortech, what would be the maximum power i could hope to achieve, a rough guide as to what the motor would/could handle?

Also another theoretical Q: Running 200-240rwkw, what 1/4mile time would you think i would be looking at, as a guess, i know its hard to say, but i was thinking along the lines of mid to low 13's, does that sound about right or am i a little optimistic?

I said 200rwkw and 8psi because that is damn safe, if you were going to rebuild within a year anyway crank it up to 10-12psi and around 240rwkw. It will wear out the motor quicker but if you are planning on rebuilding anyway who cares, my bet is it will last for more than a few years anyway even if treated fairly badly. Also remember that even with 200rwkw, the torque the blower gives is awesome.

200rwkw will still need an upgrade from the stock 19lb injectors unless you want to run an FMU which increases fuel pressure with boost. Not the best option but it works. With an FMU and 19lb injectors you will be limited to 8psi anyway. Its a bit of an overkill for most engines but 42lb injectors are nice and cheap in the US at the moment so thats what I would suggest, they will support more power than the block can cope with. Fuel pump will max out at around 200rwkw (mine went to 160 only but it was a bit old). MAF you will need to replace, the CAPA kits come with a 73mm Vortech MAF anyway. TB can stay as is but you will see an improvement with a 65 or 70mm unit.

As for maximum power, I will tell you on the weekend. My engine has been fully rebuilt with heads, cam, intake etc etc and the Vortech running 12psi (at the moment), I am tuning it tomorrow and will be at the SA dyno comp on the weekend. I know the tune won't be great as I only have a day to work on it and half of that will be fitting my new front spoiler but at least it will give an idea of what power these things cam make on a fairly modified engine.

I know a Vortech powered AU ran a 12.8sec 1/4 mile and that had a mild cam and 3.9 diff gears, but the rest was stock I believe. Don't really know about E-series V8's, maybe mid 13's as a guess. I will run mine down the 1/4 in the next few weeks if the tune comes along ok.

I guess its kinda chalk and cheese... 200rwkw is fairly radical for a nat aspirated windsor. I think XR8chic is well above this figure and that engine has had a s**t of work - and from what i've heard it flies and would probably destroy a lot of blown cars. I'd hazard a guess and say the expenditure on that combo would be comparable with a basic blower setup. Heads and manifolds alone, we are talking reasonable $$$...

I mean heck, mine's only about 170kw at the wheels but the power comes on real soon in the piece... a centrifugal blower makes more power the higher you rev, but despite what you may hear, there is LOADS of extra low down power... something which is usually sacrificed in an n/a build due to the manifolds you need to make the power in the upper rpms.

BTW 200 to 240rwkw (from blower) i think would be good for mid-high 13s, change diff and you'd be getting closer to 13 IMO

Let us know how you end up going ED XR8, on the weekend.
Is there anyway to be able to change the boost you can run, i.e. boost controller or would this only work on a turbo car? Or would you have to change the pulleys to adjust boost.
Basically just so as to whether i would be able to run a high and low boost setting, but i wasn't sure if it was possible.
Also, if buying a second hand or reco Vortech, is there anything in particular to look for or is it pretty much pot luck with how its been treated?

Martin, have you run yours down the quarter or against any other cars?
How did you go with either?

To change the boost you need to change the pulley and they are $200 each, they come in roughly 6psi, 10psi, 12psi .....

Buying a 2nd hand unit is pot luck but when I was at CAPA they showed me their 2nd hand ones and said they sell the ones thathave plenty of life still in them and recondition the others. Apparently the Vortechs have around 3-400,000km lifespan so I think you are pretty safe even with a 2nd hand one if you are on a budget.

Finally today I have put a few kms on my car, still have to iron out a few problems but so far it seems great. Starts coming on boost at 2500rpm and I am seeing around 5psi around 3500rpm, but the engine revs so quickly you are at that at no time anyway.

Nah, havent had mine down the quarter yet. I probably should... or at least get a G-tech.....

Im not really into street racing.... but have the occasional 'bout' up to the speed limit i spose... Gen III not really a problem, keep up with WRX - but hard to tell how they being driven...

Regarding changing boost - yeah, CAPA do pulleys - can also get them on ebay from the USA. I've read the Mustang guys also play around with crank pulleys - i.e. larger crank pulley = higher blower RPM.

Cool thanks guys, i thought it would be a pulley changeover to adjust boost.
I'm not into street racing either, just wondering how the car runs if some smart a** tries to line you up on the street, etc.

ED XR8, sounds good that its spooling up about 2,500rpm. I guess it still let you cruise off boost. But the next 3,000rpm after that would be a bit of fun!
Still let us know how you end up going once you've ironed out the tuning of it, and Good Luck.

Thanks for all your help on this topic guys. I'll probably think of more things that i know s**t all about or that i'm just not 100% sure about.


Cheers Dave

Was on the dyno today but having big problems, probably with the trans torque convertor slipping big time, so I won't have power figures for a few weeks at least. Will let you know still.

Cool, good luck with the tranny, hope its only a minor problem.

Ah, thats killer grant. I spose all part of the fun of chasing big power...

Ahh fun isn't the word I would use to describe it but yeah setbacks like this are expected, its just that everything that can go wrong has, but you get that.

you say mid 13 for 200-240 Martin, then i must be making more than that on NOS, cause i am down to a 13.2. As for a unichip, i would probably go aftermarket ECU, the unichip is fine for a NA car, but can be a prob with blown, or so i have heard. Also the retunes for a unichip are damn expensive. I have personally spent over 1500 on retunes as a s*** of other mods along the way.
Another point is dont go over 240rwkw with a stock auto, this absolutley kills the stock auto. I will be interested to see how this pans out, as my next mod is either 347cube or blower, or both
Brett

Hehehe, yeah but you're a madman brett!!

I know SFA about nos... what's the power delivery like, does it only come on in higher revs? Would love to see a dyno graph on the bottle...

I've got a video of a clubsport on the bottle, NOS comes on hard and fast at mid revs.

2.1MB AVI - {DESCRIPTION}

Anyone got vids of any GOOD (blue oval) cars on NOS?