ok so i picked up an AU xr6 redtop motor for 550 bucks, done 180,000km no leaks, no knocks or rattles, and this is going to be my basis of my ford modding career while on a budget anyway.

did the search and found out about the sump and the bell-housing, I've managed to get the bell-housing for 50 bucks. the k-frame is getting dropped out when i take the old motor out, getting notched and re-welded with a 3mm plate to seal it up.

the things i need for clarification are these things

1.5)

what is the BBM? is that the top runner section of the intake manifold? throttle body is not a problem, got one of those.

2.

does that mean drilling into the block at the location of where the distributor usually goes? or is there a mark or something to show where to do it?

3.

what's it look like? where is it located? i believe it goes in the original place of the au's otherwise you end up going into an oil gallery or something.

i believe there's also an issue with the rear temperature sensor too, does that one get rewired to the thermostat housing from the EL?

that's all my questions for now, im hoping i can supply some pics of my work as i do this, its my first time doing an engine swap, i've read through the forums quite alot about this and im pretty confident i can get this done

See this for a few answers.
ford-4l-and-6-cylinder-f1/au-sump-mod-for-e-series-t79648.html


BBM = broadband manifold.
Just use the EF one.

Dissy Hole.
The Au just runs a driven gear in the dissy position as the cam sensor is mounted on the timing cover, like you've noticed, remove the gear off the AU and transplant it to the EF/EL item you are using.


Temp sensor....

Just use the EF one and disreguard the AU one.
Alternativley make an extension and use the Au one. (I wouldn't bother)

Knock Sensor.

Use the AU one, if you pull apart the pins in the Au knock sensor, you can actually 'plug it in'
You will require to seal it up. Or, cut the AU knock sensor plug off and add your own jaycar plug fitting.

Do not notch the K-Frame = illegal. Modify sump = legal and it is bloody easier.

thanks krytox, as for the dizzy, i'll take a gander at it tomorrow, im hoping i can get to work on shaving down the ac pump spacers, even though i was offered an au pump, i wasnt sure if the hoses would connect up or not, so i decided for the spacers being cut down.

temp sensor, that's located in the el thermostat housing isn't it, that'd be the thermostat being changed over step.

i'll attempt the au knock sensor thing, that'll avoid me having to look for a tapper, as i'm not really keen on chopping apart the motor.



im taking the k frame to a guy who's going to certify it so it'll most likely be mig or tig welded at the least. and there's always more room for more chassis support and bracing for later down the track as this'll be a weekend warrior sorta thing.

will the engine being a vct matter too much?

And this guy that is going to notch it and certify it is an engineer approved by the RTA? Anyone can certify the bloody thing, it needs to be engineered to be legal. By the time he notches and welds etc the K-Frame it would have been just as cheap or expensive to do the Sump modification. Once the sump is done, all is legal and no insurance issues.

As for the VCT, no it wont worry you, leave it disconnected and all will be good. Troyman has had a VCT engine in for a while now and his VCT is disconnected and he has had no issues.