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| tapeworm |
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I put a VCT head on my EF and it started idled then began to rev faster & faster, extractors super hot and smoke coming out of rocker cover when oil cap removed, this is after 10 sec running. have I stuffed it? I spose timing is up the creek? Thanks~
_________________ she dream't she was a bulldozer, she dream't she was alone in a field |
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| TimmyA |
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Tried disconnecting the IAC? See if it idles... Set the base timing?
Was the head known good before you installed it? It's not leaking past the valve stems? None of the gaskets are leaking into the manifold causing it to run lean? Cheers, Tim
_________________ 93 Red ED 5spd Manual Build Thread |
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| tapeworm |
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TimmyA wrote: Tried disconnecting the IAC? See if it idles... Set the base timing? Was the head known good before you installed it? It's not leaking past the valve stems? None of the gaskets are leaking into the manifold causing it to run lean? Cheers, Tim Hi mate, The elctronic sensor attached to the throttle body might not be right, I took it off and put it back on. The inlet manifold isn't bolted on tight, the Knock sensor is removed as I broke it and the pcv valve isn't connected . These are the things I can think of that could be wrong? I am concerned I have stuffed a valve hence smoke coming out of the rocker cover. Thanks mate.
_________________ she dream't she was a bulldozer, she dream't she was alone in a field |
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| TimmyA |
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The sensor on the throttle body must be tight to prevent air leaks... If it revs up try unplugging it as this is what bumps the idle up when you turn on the ac or turn the steering wheel etc...
Inlet manifold MUST be tight otherwise the motor will run lean... Hence hot... Knock sensor is only there to prevent pinging... If you don't advance the base timing too far it wont ping... Soon find out the condition of your valves... Do a compression test... See if each cylinder holds compression... Cheers, Tim
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| TROYMAN |
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if the pcv is not connected it will suck heaps of air and can cause it to run lean, unless you have blocked the hose to prevent the vacuum leaking...
smoke from rocker cover is a concern, as this is usually piston ring blow by |
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| bry40l |
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tighten the manifold... plug in the pcv, check the base timing, make sure everything is on correctly before starting it
_________________ BF XR6 |
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| tapeworm |
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okay thanks guys, i'll give these things a shot. The smoke was light in colour, maybe it's just the wd40 I quickly cleaned the top of the pistons with & running lean is no PCV valve and minifold not bolted down completely, these are my hopes...
_________________ she dream't she was a bulldozer, she dream't she was alone in a field |
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| TimmyA |
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which will not only long cause lean, but depending how loose the manifold is it may have caused to rev too...
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| phongus |
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Loose inlet manifold = vacuum leak = bad/high idle to make up for the loss of vacuum.
It is a good idea to actually put the engine back together completely before you start the engine up...without all the sensors connected, the ECU will be pretty much lost.
_________________ phongus = Post whore 2006 |
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| tapeworm |
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I put it all back together and idle is fine now. But the car is showing head gasket symptoms, with white steam out the exhaust, lumpy idle and oil is dripping out the front of the motor. IS it likeley I havent done the headbolts tight enough? The headgasket was a metal item of several layers and I used no sealant of any sort which i think is right. I did the 30NM plus 120 degrees scenario. I felt as though I could probably tighten them up quite a bit more. Is this normal or should I have been really struggling to the 30nm plus 120 degrees?
_________________ she dream't she was a bulldozer, she dream't she was alone in a field |
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| TimmyA |
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You'll find as you work out in the spiral pattern you do headbolts in you may need to do the 30nm half a dozen times because when you move to the next bolt it takes the load of the first bolt... But 30nm plus 120 deg is right and I know from doing mine the 120deg with a 600mm breaker bar made it easier because if you didn't have such a long bar it's quite tight..
Remember the bolts are TTY and cannot be re-used once they've gone past 30nm... Irrespective of the MLS head gasket I always use head gasket spray... I use Hylomar on my VCT head swap... Copper Coat the first time and I had a funny use where oil was getting into the way and to this day not sure why, but I pulled the head back off and fitted another new MLS gasket with Hylomar as I couldn't get Copper Coat on last minute notice... Did you replace the timing case seal and put gasket goo where it meets the head gasket as they always leak out there? Cheers, Tim
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| tapeworm |
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It's a pain but i'm going to have to remove the head again and have a look. The initial 30nm doesn't seem very tight at all, I'm using a long handle torque wrench. Thanks for your help mate.
_________________ she dream't she was a bulldozer, she dream't she was alone in a field |
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| TimmyA |
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30Nm isn't tight... But like I said it takes a few spirals to get them to stay at 30Nm because as soon as you the next one the one before is loose as the head settles down onto the gasket... I think I went around the head 4 or 5 times doing the bolts to 30Nm...each time they were loose again... Kept going around until they stayed at 30Nm when I came back... Then added 120 degrees on a degree gauge...
Did you fit a new intake gasket (just as far as it originally running lean)? You used new head bolts? Did you fit a new timing case seal and gasket goo the corners? Where specifically is your oil leak? Cheers, Tim
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