My 01 AU2 Forte's Headunit is absolutely stuffed.

FM Barely works, CD is broken, antenna doesnt work or not connected.

I am going to replace it with a Single DIN aftermarket headunit.

I have about $200 to spend on headunit, i need at least USB and Auxiliary, bluetooth would be nice.

Going by this guide: http://www.fordforums.com.au/vbportal/m ... cle&id=725

I need the removal tools and wiring harness etc.

Its just the standard system so its just the headunit and the 4x 5"x7"s with no amp or subwoofer.

Is there anything else i should consider? Which brand of headunit is best for my car?

Also i am going to get the shroud/dash insert soon.

I was also looking at replacing the stock speakers as the front passenger side door speaker is either blown or its mounting is rattly.

I was looking at Kickers.

As far as actual installation goes i assume i have to disconnect the battery, then use the tools to get the stock unit out, then plug in the wiring harness and fuse. install the single din shroud/insert with the aftermarket unit bolted on, reconnect battery, test it. then all good right?

If it gets to complicated ill just pay my local audio place $80 for install

Also how would i get to keep my seek and volume controls on the steering wheel?

If you have no expertise wiring you could just buy the adaptor but if you know what you are doing, soldering is a much cheaper alternative.

Alpine has steering wheel adaptors for their products and apparently Stinger also makes one for pioneer units. So to retain the factory steering wheel controlls you may be limited to these 2 brands unless you find an adaptor for another brand...

$200 wont get you much of a headunit...

Aerpro makes adaptors to suit your car...

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And facias

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Ok... Now we have that sorted... You'd mount the frame that comes with the headunit into the dash and clip the pocket in under it... The harness plugs into your car's loom and you solder the wires to the wires on the headunit plug which will come with the headunit... So you make your own patch lead... Fairly simple... This makes for easy removal if you sell the car... means you're not soldering in the car (risk dropping solder) and you don't need a pin out diagram... You just match the colours as both plugs are to the std colours... Makes it real idiot proof... And i do recommend soldering... Not those crapping inline crimps or scotch locks... They're all crap and do more damage than good... If you can't solder, best go buy a $20 iron and start giving it a practise...

You will need removal tools... Bend up a coathange of if you know someone from your local ford get them to pop it out... If it is going to play nice it takes 10 secs... if it wants to argue then maybe 5 mins...

Brand wise... I'm a pioneer person I suppose... But I have never owned one because they always seem to be ridiculously dear and not functional... I was given an old clarion initially... then went on to a xplod cd player... Then to a fusion ipod player (only people to make one)... and now back to an xplod mech-less unit... Pioneer do a mech-less unit but it has no media tray where the xplod does... Again I look for functionality...

factory speakers can have issues... esp as they age... replacement with a better quality aftermarket isn't a bad idea... each have their preferred brands for speakers... Lot of apline type r people out there... I am a bit of a JBL nut though... Love their stage sound so I went with it in my car...

No need to disconnect the battery if you make up a patch lead like I said... You aren't baring wires in the car so you can't short anything out... But as I mentioned above... Mount the frame into the dash... clip in the surround... or vice versa... never done an AU so not familiar with what the pocket looks like... plug in your patch loom to the dash plug and into the headunit... and then slide the unit back into the frame until it clips in...

plenty of people here to help you if you wind up stuck somewhere... Save the $80 and pick some valuable skills and knowledge for yourself... You never know when you may need them... then make some money by installing headunits for your mates like I did...

Cheers,
Tim

Ah radio controls...

company called PAC...

http://www.pac-audio.com/Products.aspx?CategoryId=29

The two models you'll be interested in are:

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Part Number: SWI-PS
Description: Steering Wheel Control Interface for Pioneer, Sony Radios

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Part Number: SWI-JACK
Description: Steering Wheel Control Interface for JVC, Alpine, Clarion, Kenwood, OEM, Valor & Blaupunkt Radios

Should cover the brans you are looking at... I have the PS to suit my xplod unit... To use these you will require a headunit with a wired remote control input... It'll look like a head phone jack or similar in the rear but be labelled something along the lines of remote control...

Will be a little bit involved to wire this in but again it isn't hard... It picks up the earth at the cd player... pick up power from the accy wire... the right trigger wire hooks to your buttons... and the plug comes out and into the cd player... I wired mine into my patch harness when I fitted the xplod... I have all the documentation here in my emails for how to set it up when I conversed with the guy in the states about them... because they don't list instructions for falcons I needed to know which wire did what and then make my own instructions... So I can walk you through installing one of these if you go that way... programming is fairly straight forward... pick a revision number and program your buttons in the order the book says and you're away... check ebay for pricing...

There are other brands out there like the CAT10 and that but I am quite happy to go on about the system I run because I know how it all works... As I said if you go the way I did I'll help you wire it in...

Cheers,
Tim

May i suggest you take a look at my post below

ford-audio-visual-f5/df-series-1-ltd-sound-system-rejuvination-t104836.html

Here you will see what a few extra $$$ will get you and i promise it is worth every cent.

I like your write up...

I have the same subwoofer but I don't have factory premium sound so I run it off my own amp... I paid well over $200 for mine... I think it is a great little bugger though...

I differ in that I am a brand name person... I like their warranties and reputations and call me a sucker... But I'd sooner spend another $100 on something and even it only lasts a littler longer it means you are not replacing it as often...

As for a unit with all the bells and whistles... Na... I don't watch DVD's while I am driving... I don't watch TV while I'm driving... I like Navman's and the like as they are easy to update every couple of years... Just buy a new one and sell the old one off... I don't need a double din with a full colour screen... I only need something to tell me which song I'm listening to and show me my spectrum analyser... Might be different if you have kids... To me that just adds a whole heap of headache and wiring for features I'd guarantee I'd never use... The TV antennas... The GPS antenna... The wiring to the handbrake for the screen enable and that... I like my basic bluetooth headunit with factory steering wheel interface thanks... If your circumstances differ from mine and you do indeed need to watch DVD's and TV in the car and that then yeah this would be suited... But it isn't for everyone...

Cheers,
Tim

no problem Tim.... like the saying goes.... horses for courses

Gday TimmyA,
Could you please share where you wired the swi-jack. I have a Kenwood head unit and will be buying a swi-jack soon.

Thanks
Tony

with all falcon radio buttons you earth one side of the resistors if not already... Then the other wire goes to the PAC unit and joins to the white wire... you hook switched power to the red wire and black wire to earth... you plug the head phone jack into the cd unit, unless another connection method is required...

Then just a matter of programming it... The buttons resistances will determine the revision you program into the unit... And the instructions detail programming the buttons in...

Cheers,
Tim