Apart from what's already been mentioned in this thread - check the inner dust seals - they need to be seated properly in the rotor casting - the metal ring that the seal is bonded to, needs to sit recessed - not flush, with the rotor. When you have the rotors off, you'll understand what I'm saying when you look. If the dust covers are not seated properly, bearing adjustment may not be correct due to this. As far as bearings go, check the grease packing, look for water ingress, corrosion, etc - same for the bearing rollers and outer shells - pitting, "brinnelling", corrosion, roughness - this may be better checked by washing the bearings in solvent. Repack bearings with High temp bearing grease, and ensure the grease is worked in well between rollers . . . .
Alternatively, if you're not happy with the bearings, fit newbies.

If you have access to a DTI (dial test indicator) - you could check the runout (warping), of the rotors.

ok i will check all these things.

But to be honest nothing has really been tried or played with with would fix the problem... i mean all thats really been done is the nut which holds the bearings in place had been tightened to ensure there is no give. That wont help if the bearings are stuffed.

I have searched this forum to see if anyone else has had the same prob as me shuddering in the steering wheel at speeds of 90 - 110kmh and i found a few which all stated bearings to be a commonly known thing to do that. Now when they say that do they mean bearings will do that if not adjusted, seated or installed correctly or bearing will do that if they are stuffed as in internally no good and worn over time???

It seems my only solution atm is to assume whatever is causing the problem has occured during the change of the pads and rotors. So if i take redo the job then at least i know what has and hasnt been done correctly. Is it worth me buying a gregory's manual??? as far as i know its a fairly simple job and hardest part is prolly the bearings if your keeping the old ones?

I assume your brother is not a proffessional mechanic, rather a backyarder or 'home mechanic' like many of us
Just remember that some jobs are critical to your safety and service procedures can change between differant modle years or vehicels, so it is always important to refer to manuals when doing these types of jobs**. This should become a habit

If you don't want to buy a manual that's OK, instead check out your local library, they may even have the official ford manuals on hand which you can refer to. Take some notes and photocopy some of the important pages.

A manual would/should specify the preload, if any, you must set when adjusting the bearings and this should be followed explicitly. In some cases, near enough isn't good enough. After all you don't want things to wobble too much - just look at what happened to Raikkonen in the last F1 race

Good luck with it.

Cheers.

** i say this cause an aircraft mechanic relied on his years of skill to find some bolts for a windscreen replacement rather than the using the manual and the windscreen blew mid flight suching the pilot out.

Other than what's already been mentioned, there's really nothing else to recommend.

All of those reasons - but check yourself to put this beyond doubt. If the inner seals are okay and installed properly, outside dust caps fitted properly, decent bearings and shells fitted, grease packed with HTB grease, and adjusted correctly and split pinned. Check every 50 000 km or so. Barring moisture ingress and faulty bearings, with normal driving, they should last for ages. I've always found shuddering to be most pronounced when braking - so don't discount your brakes not bedding in properly after 1200 km you've travelled. You'll find, depending on driving habits, rotors usually need regular machining - 50000 km or so.

Yep, look at what has changed before and after the problem - do the job with a recognised manual, as this is a safety critical job, a manual is also handy with other tasks as well.

Mine used to shudder at those speeds, machined discs, was fine.

nice

yeah, iv got this problem at the moment, speeds between 100 - 110kmph, only because i changed my wheels with second hand ones, so im thinking all i need is a wheel balancing (crossing fingers) then again, i did change all 4 wheels in half an hour, possibly something was missed, but i doupt it, i double checked everything, still need to replace brake pads and probably the discs or something i dunno... just havent had the cash to do it... maybe next week she'll get taken care of

yeah i would balance my wheels if i was you who knows the second hand rims could be slightly buckled?

any huge amount of damage from not doing so for an extended period of time say a month and a half? do you sense the fear in me? hehe

Ok today i baught a Gregory's manual.

The other night i mentioned i got my bro to tighten the hub bearing nut. We then took it for a drive and strangly the shuddering was noticeably worse.... then after a few days of driving it wasnt as bad.

Reading the manual here is sais:

1.) While rotating the hub, tighten the hub bearing nut to a torque of 30Nm
2.) Loosen the hub bearing nut half a turn
3.) Tighten the hub bearing nut to a torque of 15Nm

My bro isnt a backyard mechanic he is qualified mechanic which makes the fact that i even have this problem very worrying. This is the first time he has touched my car usually it is taken to a mechanic which works on my old mans EL.

But im a student and broke so i cant afford to do that and figured hey this is a simple job maybey my bro can do it.....

Anywyas he recons the bearings were fine when he checked them. im gonna try Tightening the hub bearings properly and see what happens my money is on this. If not then im gonna do the entire job again myselfand replace the bearings.....

Thanx for help so far i will keep you posted

isnt that just for replacing the bearings? cause i was a apprentice and when i used to do wheel bearings i tighted them,then spin the hub a few times, then loosend them, then spin a few more times and then tighted them till they were firm! but that was on 4wd's so could be different. i was told it is done to squeeze the greese through the new bearing probley.

Yeh you may be right.... still my money is on the Wheel bearings!!! we shall see...

Where u used to be an apprentice at??? i was an apprentice at Giant autos until i realised what a huge mistake i was making.

i was an apprentice at grand toyota, had to give it up i was passenger in a very serious car acciedent. I love my job, well i just love cars.