damn i think i live in the worng state lol

Yea your right Skidder, I do have bugger all mechanical knowledge, I will ask some people I know that may know how to change springs, thankyou for your help everyone if i were to lower my car with super low king springs, is there anything else I have to buy or do I just need the springs???
Thanks

i think you need short travel shocks for super lows someone will correct me if im wrong

^Correct, if you just go lows (approx xr6 height) you can do with stock shockers. In saying that, unless they have been replaced since new probably a good idea to get new ones even if only going lows. Even relatively cheapish fresh shocks/struts will be better than old clapped out ones.

Springs are not difficult to change, you just need good spring compressors and decent 1/2" drives and a manual. A helping hand is always good though.

Your talking about an engine more modified than the OP
Also you cant quote people properly

An off the shelf exhaust - ie. the redback setup with good rear muffler - should cost something like $350 delivered to your door off ebay and won't need welding to fit - they come with gaskets and clamps etc. and use clamped joints - made to be self installed. Don't be in a rush for extractors - they're not worth useful gains until after you've done the cam etc.

Suspension wise I STRONGLY recommend tracking down factory XR6 gear - ie. springs and sway bars. If you MUST go superlow (think about if you REALLY want to be scraping the belly everywhere) those XR6 springs can be reset cheaply by a spring works. Ultimately you'll want Bilstein shockies - think seriously about saving for them straight up - they'll last 10 times longer than any others so expensive straight up WILL be cheaper in the long run (mine are still going great after 10+ years of hard use).

(STAY AWAY FROM KING SPRINGS - after many years I've realised I %$#@&^* HATE bastard hard backbreaking King Springs. Lovells might be a reasonable alternative to factory ones, but even they're harder than std). Feeling like a go-kart is NOT the same as actual handling.

Also fit QFM HPX brake pads.

Next would be to replace the EL intake with something like the Autospeed article (I think they fit a BA duct setup? ) - or fit an EF duct with the snoot cut off in the airbox. The big problem with EL duct is the tiny airbox outlet - the EF one has decent outlet size (tho even that can be improved) but a reduced snoot inside the box. K&N air filter at this stage as well of course.

After that, fit AU 4 hole injectors (improved bottom end torque). By this time your EL is probably due for a good Injector clean / recon anyway and you can get a set of NEW 4 hole AU injectors for under $200 - fitting will be extra but shouldn't be more than an hour's labour charge - if mekanix try to charge more tell em ur payin for a mech to do the work, not their office girl...

From there, you're looking at more serious performance - ie. in maybe a year or two when you've actually learned enough to stay alive on the road:

IMO the way to go is stick with auto trans and std diff and go for a Wade 1673 or 1636 cam that plays nice with the auto and have a TCI Hi Stall converter fitted (converter + fitting = about $600). While the converter is being done you can have them fit an adjustable S5 solenoid and tweak it for slightly firmer shifts. The solenoid will cost about $100 and might be another hour's labour plus maybe some o rings and/or a gasket - I guess u need to budget $200 / $250 on top of the base cost of doing the converter.

I've done the manual trans and diff thing (tho I went with 3.45 diff, not 3.7 or 3.9 that I SHOULD have) - and I MUCH prefer the auto with std diff and hi stall converter - LOVE IT!

Then come the extractors and finally a programmable ECU module. Extractors I guess u could fit anytime - but I'd personally use the $$ to do cam first - you'll see much better off the line and midrange benefits straight away. Improvement from doing cam but not extractors WILL be GREATER than doing extractors but not cam...

After that ur looking at going up in cam size and/or porting the head - but the rest of your setup is ready to handle that kind of progression. The car should also be a nice driver and performer that will be easy to sell.

Edited - moved air filter up to same time as ducting and expanded on info for doing the injectors and having S5 done.

If you're after xr6 springs I have a full set, it you're interested PM me

+1 for getting a manual and reading up on the forums. I've had my ef for a year and when I picked it up I knew sweet fa about them. In a year I've changed headgaskets, engines, manual conversions, services etc etc. Doesn't matter what way you want to go you will save s**t of cash if you've got the knowledge.